History of the Redbone Coonhound

The history of the Redbone Coonhound is one that is not well documented. It’s a history that you would more likely hear about while sitting at the feet of your great-grandpa. Coon hunting was once a well-known tradition that has seemed to have faded in this modernized world. However, there is a group still thriving, almost like a “Secret Society”. The great coon hunters from this society are who founded these flashy, red-coated, hard-hunting dogs we know as Redbones!

Going back to before the Civil War, Redbones were already well established. To give an exact year is too hard. I believe that a lot of the old red dogs that are noted in history and believed to be Bloodhounds were actually Redbones. Stories tell that Davy Crockett even kept a Redbone for a companion at some point. After much research, here are some of my personal findings that came through putting pieces of the puzzle together…

As the stories go, crossings with the Foxhound “July” and also the Proctor and Redbone strains of Col. Mile G. Harris of GA; could be the beginnings of the Redbone. The July hound was a product of hounds, Tickler and Lade, from Nimrod Gosnell of MD. Tickler was a red hound with white on his neck while Lade was a tan female of a medium size. Harris’ other hounds, Proctor and Redbone strain, were large red hounds with long ears hanging like window curtains. After Col. Harris’ hearing and eyesight started to fail, he gave his pack of hounds to friends in Putnam Co., GA. The July hound eventually went to one of the friends, George L.F. Birdsong. Birdsong also acquired a pack of hounds from Dr. Thomas Y. Henry. From these Scottish and Irish Foxhounds is what is to be believed the foundation stock of the modern-day Redbone.

W.B. Frisbee, a Redbone owner from the early to mid-1900s, said…..

“The Redbone Coonhound originated in the South in the slave days. They were used to catch runaway slaves and by the trustees to catch coon and opossum…. At that time they were a large, heavy hound and were open trailers on the trail of game…. Had deep bawling voices, color was red with black saddles on backs, with red or tan heads and ears. And even then some were solid red. When the slaves were freed and they were no longer needed…. (for that purpose)…. they were crossed with the Irish hounds to get a lighter, faster hound…. So now they are good trim-built hounds that have good cold noses and will range out for a great distance to find their game and will tree it and stay for hours until their owners find them and get the game or call them away. They are now and always have been a one-man dog and will fight for their master. It is almost impossible for a stranger to pick one of them up in the woods.”

These traits make Redbone Coonhounds unique to the other Coonhound breeds as they were bred first for their looks; to be a solid flashy red dog, medium in size. And after achieving their goal, dedicated breeders focused on the hunting ability again. Thanks to hunters and breeders like Brooks Magill, Roy Blakesley, and many more, the Redbone breed evolved into what we see today.

W.B. Frisbee spoke the truth; Redbones are an American-bred hound originating from the south. Their beautiful red coats, whether dark as mahogany or a golden sheen of red, are a product of determined breeders who set out to produce a medium-sized, solid red, eye-catching hound.

As I said before, the history of the Redbone Coonhound is somewhat hidden inside of the “Society” of great coon hunters, past and present. As Roy Blakesley says, “Thank the Lord there were enough good men interested in the breed to stay with it, and bring the breed to where it is today. The Redbone breed is the youngest breed of the old breeds of hounds, but are the oldest breed of tree hounds we have, were never used as trail hounds as a breed, were bred and used for tree game from the start.” And of course, in his opinion, “The finest breed of tree hounds in the world.”

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1. How were you first introduced to the sport of purebred dogs? To your breed?

Jenny Henry: When I was younger, my mother raised (American) Cocker Spaniels. So, in 2005, I got a Chocolate Tri Roan Cocker to learn how to show dogs. I learned the basics of showing and loved it. I had to stop because of life and family. I got my first German Shepherd Dog in 2016 and started to show in UKC and then AKC. My husband always wanted Redbone Coonhounds, so I looked for a puppy for him. We got my first Redbone, “Rebel,” in 2020 and have just fallen in love with the breed.

2. How many years in dogs? How many as an Owner Handler? As a Breeder?

Jenny Henry: I always had dogs growing up. I’ve been showing German Shepherd Dogs, as an owner handler, for five years and Redbone Coonhounds for three years. I just recently produced my first well-bred German Shepherd litter in January 2023.

3. Do you attend show handling classes? Have you attended in-person handling seminars?

Jenny Henry: I took handling classes when I had my Cockers. I have taken a few, here and there, at shows when offered.

4. Have you found virtual learning tools to be helpful? Videos? Websites? Social Media? AKC Canine College?

Jenny Henry: I have found that some virtual tools can be helpful, and have taken multiple AKC Canine College classes. I have learned handling techniques from watching online videos of Breed and Group judging. I have also asked for opinions in online Conformation groups, and have learned that you had better be prepared if you want to succeed in the show ring.

5. Do you compete in the National Owner-Handled Series? Are rankings important to you?

Jenny Henry: I do compete in the National Owner-Handled Series. I have done well with both of my boys that I’m showing this year and look forward to seeing their rankings.

6. How important is the Bred-By Class to you? How important are Specialties?

Jenny Henry: I’ve only shown in the Bred-By Class a few times, as I am now showing my first bred-by German Shepherd Dog puppy, which we excitingly won Best Bred-By Exhibitor at the 2023 AKC National Championship! We will be entering him in his first GSD Specialties. Redbones do not have Breed Specialties, but we have participated in a few Group Specialties.

7. Is it a challenge to compete with your breed as a Breeder/Owner Handler?

Jenny Henry: German Shepherds can be a challenge for an Owner Handler, but Redbones tend to be predominantly owner-handled. However, I enjoy the challenge to push myself!

8. Who have been your mentor(s) as an Owner Handler? As a Breeder?

Jenny Henry: I’ve had a few great mentors in the show world who have helped me, from grooming to presenting. But the two mentors who have helped me the most have been Kathryn Taylor and Pat Jenkins. They have both helped me grow as a confident handler and feel like I belong in the regular Group ring. As a breeder, I talk to many other breeders within my breeds and try to listen and learn what I can to make the most responsible choices.

9. How important is the Breeder/Owner Handler to the future of the sport? To your breed?

Jenny Henry: Breeder/Owner Handlers are critical for the sport to continue.

10. What advice would you give to Owner Handlers who are thinking of breeding their dog(s)?

Jenny Henry: I suggest to do as much research into your breed as possible, and learn which genetic influences you need to watch or breed for. Be responsible and make educated choices. If you decide to breed, know what you’re looking for and why. Look at your dogs, know their faults, and breed to dogs that will result in improvement towards the Breed Standard.

11. What are your goals as a Breeder/Owner Handler? Is there a victory that has eluded you?

Jenny Henry: My goals are to see my young GSD grow up and continue to stay competitive as he matures, and also to produce my first Redbone litter. I will continue to show my two boys and see what we can achieve next! I would love to celebrate the victory of finishing my first home-bred champion!

12. Is there a funny story that you can share about your experiences as a Breeder/Owner Handler?

Jenny Henry: As I was just learning to show, I had a great mentor tell me, “Quit running like a girl!” I was taking little bouncy steps as I ran around the ring, which caused the dogs I was handling to also run with little bouncy steps. So, I worked hard at watching other handlers in the ring, and I practiced taking longer, smoother strides. I repeated that in my head until it helped to change my running style. To this day, I hear that comment in my head! That one funny comment has improved my skills as a handler much more than I ever imagined it would!

I suggest to do as much research into your breed as possible, and learn which genetic influences you need to watch or breed for.

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Any good dog parent knows that ALL dogs have the potential to help us stay active. That being said, we love this list from our friends at The American Kennel Club. Having shared our lives with some of these breeds, we can attest to their energy!

The exercise needs of these ten active breeds would keep any owner in shape! Walking, jogging, biking, hiking, swimming and playing Frisbee with your dog are all fun workouts you can take part in together.

American Staffordshire Terrier

Courageous and strong, the American Staffordshire Terrier’s athletic build and intelligence make him ideally suited to many dog sports such as obedience, agility, tracking and conformation. The conditioning required for these different sports would make the Am Staff a great workout partner! This people-oriented dog thrives when he is made part of the family and given a job to do.

Border Collie

The high-drive Border Collie would help keep any owner fit – its energetic nature requires more exercise than just a walk around the block or playing in the yard. If owners don’t have cows or sheep available for herding practice, running would be a great activity to tire out the BC.

Brittany

This strong, quick and agile dog can hunt all day in the field. Brittanys thrive on activities like running, hiking and swimming, and the breed possesses a willing attitude to participate in any activity with its family.

Belgian Malinois

The Belgian Malinois is an alert, high-energy breed and is used regularly as a police and military working dog. Since both professions require the dog to be active and in-shape, the Belgian Malinois would gladly accompany its owner out for a run or a romp in the yard. This breed is happiest with something stimulating to do!

Dalmatian

The Dalmatian has a working heritage as a “coach dog,” where it ran alongside horse-drawn carriages for miles. Today, many Dalmatians take part in an activity called a “road trial” that mimics this historic usage. It requires Dals to run alongside a horse in a staged situation, a perfect environment for this high-energy breed. The breed’s endurance makes it a great running companion.

Doberman Pinscher

The Doberman Pinscher is a muscular dog that possesses endurance and speed. The properly bred and trained Doberman has proved itself to be a friend and guardian, and his intelligence and ability to absorb and retain training have brought him into demand as a police and war dog.Energetic, obedient and loyal, the Doberman enjoys exercising and spending time with its owner.

German Shorthaired Pointer

The German Shorthaired Pointer is a friendly, smart, eager to please dog that historically was used to hunt all day in the field. GSPs thrive on exercise like most other pointing breeds and love being involved in outdoor activities with their families. Running, swimming or dog sports would be a great choice for this active breed.

Greyhound

The Greyhound is the fastest breed of dog and was originally bred to use its vision and speed to chase after deer, stag, fox and hare in its native England. Although today the Greyhound primarily serves as a sweet and personable companion, the breed’s athleticism makes it a great running partner.

Redbone Coonhound

The Redbone Coonhound was bred to hunt and swim over varied terrain while still maintaining its speed and agility. The breed developed great endurance and tenacity tracking game ranging from raccoons to cougars. During its downtime, Redbones have plenty of energy to spend exercising with their owners.

Vizsla

The Vizsla thrives as part of an active family that provides daily exercise. He is happy and affectionate with his people, very trainable in the house, but also able to go all day while out hunting.

Ten Dog Breeds That Will Help You Stay Fit – ShowSight Magazine July 2014 Issue

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When judging and evaluating Redbone Coonhounds, I look for the overall dog. I start at the head and work down over the body to the feet, legs, and tail. I am looking for a nice, houndy head, with a nice ear set; not Bloodhound in type and not high set with a Sporting dog type of ear hang or length.

The standard says it should reach almost to the end of the nose, not to the middle of the cheek. I like it touching the nose in length, proportionate with the dog’s head. A good, dark eye or, in exception, a hazel-colored eye, is usually coordinating with a medium-golden red coat. A darker dog with a lighter eye is not favorable. When looking into a Redbone’s eyes, it is a pleading expression you are looking for. It is usually a look that melts most people’s hearts. (You almost cannot tell them “no” on whatever they are asking for.) A nice, well-balanced head is the first thing you should see in the breed.

Then, reaching down the neck, it should have a slight arch in it, and the throat should have a slight fold under the jaw. Then onto the back, a nice lay of shoulders and a good spring of rib. Slightly taller at shoulders than the hips… not necessarily seen but felt. A dog should not look like a drag race car running around the ring, or standing still, higher in the rear than the front.

When judging Redbone Coonhounds I look for adequate muscle. Redbones have a leaner, tighter muscle. This varies with dog type, but must be present; not flabby or boney. A nice saber-like tail is free of curl and heavy brush. This is a single-coated breed and has a short length coat with various shades of red, varying from a golden red coat to a dark mahogany coat. Note that the coat changes during the lifespan of the dog. As the dog gets older, the coat starts to get lighter in color, and grey can appear on the muzzle, cheeks, and toes as early as four years of age, much like a Plott graying in the same areas.

The hindquarters should never be straight or cowhocked, as this doesn’t allow for a free-moving dog, nor should they be over-angulated. The forelegs and pasterns should be straight and the feet well-padded and cat-like, with nice, short toes. Front legs should not toe in or out, but should be straight-on when viewed. Front dewclaws are left on, for another source of grabbing onto the tree while baying (treeing) game. Back dewclaws are a fault; not permissible. Most of the Redbones are also left with some length of nail; not long toe nails, but not nubs. They have a purpose in their hunting.

Redbones have a distinctive, flowing movement. It is deliberate in stride. They are not to be moved and run with like a Sporting dog. The dog is “wind-ing” the air and hunting for game as it is moving through the terrain that includes swamp, rivers, creeks, fields, woods, and mountains. A dog that is running wide-open is most likely overrunning the scent and losing his game trail. In the same terms, a dog that cannot move freely, and have reach and drive, and just pokes along—and is going to have to catch a cab to get to its game because, by now, it is in the next county. These dogs are hunters and should be viewed as such.

Dogs that are dual-purpose hounds will most likely tote battle scars, pieces of ear missing, split ears, scars on their head or legs, and clouded or blinded eyes. They will also be missing hair sometimes, especially under the chest, from underbrush, and around the throat area from tracking collars and/or multiple collars worn while hunting and training. Also, when the hair grows back, it comes back white in most cases. You can tell the difference between white hairs scantily on the throat from being pulled out or rubbed off and that of being white [markings] up the throat, which is totally different. Being a breeder and hunter, I easily overlook these battle wounds and take them in with admiration.

Redbones should give an overall impression of being sound and athletic and judging Redbone Coonhounds should be as a whole package and not a specific color or height. Everything should be in proportion.

The Redbone, when viewed from a distance, should have a distinction in sex also. The bitches and dogs shouldn’t have to have an “undercarriage” check in most cases. The bitch is a little more elegant in most cases and has more tuck-up. She may also not be as heavy in body, but should have enough substance about her to take on her quarry of game.

The dogs in temperament are very even-tempered, but are very aggressive on game. The show ring is tolerated by most. I’m not saying they do not enjoy showing, but most of them come to life when game is present—almost like turning on a light switch.

So, when making my choices, I look for the dog that has substance and structure to help denote its ability to do its job, with breed characteristics known only to the Redbone. A 20-pound coon or 500-pound bear or hog can be hunted by the same exact dog, so it has to fit the standard to be able to do its job. They meet their game head-on in most cases. Remember, they do not need to become the prey. But if the tables are turned, Redbones need to be able to stand their own ground.

Redbone Coonhound Dog Breed Magazine

Showsight Magazine is the only publication to offer dedicated Digital Breed Magazines for ALL recognized AKC Breeds.

Read and learn more about the amiable Redbone Coonhound dog breed with articles and information in our Redbone Coonhound Dog Breed Magazine.

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Interview with Hound Group Breeder Lori Mills – Sidearm Kennel

Where do I live? How many years in dogs? How many years as a breeder?

Lori Mills: I live in Grand Bay, Alabama. I have been in dogs all my life; over 56 years. I’m a third-generation dog person.

What is my kennel name? How many dogs do I currently keep?

Lori Mills: My kennel name is Sidearm Kennel. We keep between 40 and 80 dogs, including puppies.

Which show dogs from the past have been my noteworthy winners?

Lori Mills: Notable winners include GCHG CH CWSG CCH Sidearm The Jungle King Mufasa, aka “Mufasa” (2x Westminster Breed Winner), GCH Sidearm Bare Necessities, aka “Baloo,” GCH Sidearm Kajun Ketchup, aka “Tabasco,” GCHB CH Sidearm Return of The King, aka “Rerun” (2x Westminster Breed Winner), GCHG CH CCH Sidearm Despicable Me, aka “Minion” (3x Westminster Breed Winner), and GCH Sidearm Red Sonador.

Which have been my most influential sires and dams?

Lori Mills: Influential sires and dams include Baloo, Xena, Sonador, Tabasco, and Mufasa.

Can I talk a bit about my facilities? Where are my puppies whelped? How are they raised?

Lori Mills: I have a variety of kennels, welded panels, fencing, and Preifert. Puppies are in whelping rooms outside at the kennel. Pups are handled from their first breath, raised by the dam until weaned. Food is first introduced at three weeks of age.

What is my “process” for selecting show puppies? At what age do I make my decisions?

Lori Mills: I start looking at pups on Day One. We start making selections and evaluations at 2 weeks. Selections are made anywhere from 8 weeks to 6 months. We pick pups from a natural stance and for their personality.

How do I prepare my pups for the show ring? Does my breed require any special preparation?

Lori Mills: We train in stages and socialize as much (and as safely) as possible. We start pups on drags for hunting at 6-8 weeks. We hunt our dogs; coonhunting is allowed year-round. In the warmer months, we have a motorized Walker and swimming alternatives to keep the Hounds in condition. It’s an honest breed, so bathing and trimming nails is all they need.

Can I share my thoughts on how my breed is currently presented in the show ring?

Lori Mills: I see a lot of newcomers to the breed showing them like a Doberman Pinscher and running with them like a German Shepherd Dog or a Sporting breed. That’s not how Coonhounds hunt; they trot at a good pace so that they can gather scent. They’re a hunting dog, not a racehorse.

Are there any health-related concerns within my breed? Any special nutritional needs?

Lori Mills: Our breed, like other Coonhounds, needs to be checked for Coonhound blindness. PRA, hips, and shoulders are all a “base.” We perform a panel of tests, but overall they are a very healthy breed with just regular, preventive maintenance needed. A good quality dog food (NOT grain-free) is essential, as is Vitamin C.

In my opinion, is my breed in good condition overall? Any trends that warrant concern?

Lori Mills: I’m seeing a loss of bone, lighter eyes, and a higher earset. We need to stick to a “houndy” type with substance.

Is my breed well-suited to be a family dog? Who are the best candidates to own my breed?

Lori Mills: They are great family dogs and are very diverse. We have them in apartments, on charter boats, farms, neighborhoods, and in semi trucks. They love the water and other animals, and they have good longevity into their teens, barring accidents and cancer or some unforeseen disease.

Do I feel that my breed is supported by a sufficient number of preservation breeders?

Lori Mills: No, I don’t. Several breeders are trying to reinvent the wheel and are disregarding the Breed Standard; losing type. I’ve seen several with more on the Sighthound silhouette rather than Scenthound. High ears, light eyes, and light-boned Hounds are concerns. You need to start over if you don’t have type.

For a bit of fun, what’s the most amusing thing I’ve ever experienced with a Hound?

Lori Mills: LIFE! You will never have a cable bill again if you own a Hound. It’s always entertaining!

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As you know, the back is divided into four sections; the withers, back, loin, and croup. Behind the withers is the back, then the loin, then the croup, and the vertebrae go back all the way to the end of the tail. In certain coonhounds today, more in some breeds than in others, we’re seeing a short rib cage and a long loin on a regular average-backed dog. The dog might be the right length in the back, but if the rib cage doesn’t go back far enough into the loin, it’s not going to have enough cavity that it needs for the heart, the lungs, and all the organs. A short back, combined with a long loin, makes a coonhound weak and unable to run long distances. In coonhounds especially, strength over the loin and lung space are needed.

Many of the top-winning Treeing Walker Coonhounds are sadly lacking in shoulder angulation and would never make it in the field. What’s really important about the shoulder blades is not just the layback; not just the way the blades are angled. The shoulder blades are angled at 45 degrees, as is the upper arm, forming a perfect 90-degree “L.” A good shoulder is oblique, the way a bone curves back into the curvature of the body. The shoulder bone cannot stick straight up, out of the dog’s back, and be efficient. They’ve got to come back together a little bit, lay back, and curve back into the body.

Another important point regarding the shoulder assembly is the point of the elbow. The point of elbow is directly under the withers, right under the top of the shoulder blade, in a perfectly straight line. You could run a plumb line and drop it right where the shoulder blades meet and it will come straight down through the elbow to the floor, right behind the foot. I’ll guarantee that you won’t see many dogs made like this. What you’ll see is a shorter upper arm, or an upper arm pitched at an angle that forces the elbow in front of the shoulder. That combination leads to bad action on the front.

So, look at the front assembly very carefully. Visualize a big circle, with a straight line dropping through it, cutting it in half, meeting the elbow, meeting the ground. It will be the focal point on a well-made dog. There’s a good reason for this. The heart, lungs, and all of the organs that make them run are right there. They better have that depth, that balance. Look at how this dog’s chest (far left) comes down and meets his elbow. There must be enough depth of brisket for lung capacity. There are many dogs whose elbows are too far below their brisket line.

The same is true about the hindquarters. The dog in this photo (below right) shows the relationship between the length of the two bones and the angle formed by them. We can’t see through to the bone, but look at the width of the thigh. I’ve never seen a coonhound that had too much width of second thigh.

In coonhound structure, we’re also losing some angle from the stifle joint to the point of the hock. We’re getting too many dogs that look unbalanced, especially if they’re straight in the shoulder and straight in the hindquarter assembly. Look for second thigh, width of thigh. You have to observe this with your eyes and your hands to make sure they are correct. And remember that the tail is an extension of the spine. A tail that goes straight up may affect the pitch of the pelvis. Up front, you can really see and feel the shoulder blades. Again, balance is the key. If you see this in action, you’ll know what I’m talking about. You’ll say, “Now I get it. That is side gait.” That’s something we don’t look for enough when we judge. A dog can look pretty standing there with a handler posing them, but when you gait them on the ground there is nothing that can be done to make them look good. You can’t do it with the lead. What you see is what you get. And don’t let markings fool you—easy to do with a Treeing Walker’s markings especially. As a result, his shoulders might look different, but when you get your hands on him you will see where his shoulder blades are. Don’t be afraid to get your hands on those blades, to feel them. If you run your hands down the blades, and down the upper arms to the elbows, you can visualize what the angles are.

The feet and pasterns are very closely tied together and they should be in balance with each other. You’ll hardly ever see great pasterns with bad feet, or the other way around. It’s usually a package. We get to the point in coonhound shows that we’re looking for such tight feet that we might be getting a little carried away sometimes. A great cat foot with a straight pastern is pretty to look at, but it doesn’t offer any shock absorbers to the force coming down through the shoulders. You’ve got to have a little spring, a little flexibility, to the slightly sloping pastern.

Dog 1. Correct Hind Angulation: Note the 30-degree slope of the pelvis. This provides the most power. Just as important is the perfect 130-degree angle of the back joint, providing the leverage to push the dog forward.

Dog 2. Incorrect Hind Angulation. The pelvic slope of 10 degrees promotes the overly-straight stifle joint shown here. The back joint is also overly-straight at 148 degrees.

Coonhounds are a scenthound and the tail carriage will be up. You want to see a dog that can extend its front, that can push behind, show balance, propulsion and locomotion movement with ease, and cover ground.

Withers-back-loin-croup is all you need to remember. Four basic parts that better work together. If the withers are too steep, the shoulders aren’t laidback enough; there’s going to be a basic, functional problem. If the back’s too long or too short, there’s going to be a basic, functional problem. If the ribs don’t go back into the loin far enough, or deep enough, there’s going to be a basic, functional problem. Other problems to be aware of include a weak loin and a roach back. The croup’s got to have some pitch and some length. If a croup is too short and steep, it will affect the tail set.

I hope that this will help in the judging of our coonhounds and determining the right Coonhound Structure. They are a movement dog with good reach and drive. Coonhounds give meaning to Form=Function.

What is the correct Coonhound Structure? by Nancy Winton, Dry River Kennels

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