Judging the Otterhound

Please note, this is not the official AKC standard for the Otterhound. It is our interpretation of the standard and what we strive for in our breeding program.

History

Otter hunting has a long and distinguished past spanning 800 years. Records of dogs kept specifically for otter hunting date back to the 12th century, during the reign of King Henry II. His son, King John, was the first Master of Otterhounds. These early packs likely consisted of Southern Hounds, Welsh Harriers, and crosses of the two.

The origins of the Otterhound as we know it today are debated, but it’s suspected that French hounds were foundational due to their resemblance to hounds of the Vendeen region, such as the Grand Griffon Vendeen and Griffon Nivernais. Generations of selective breeding have preserved the distinctive characteristics of the modern-day Otterhound.

In 1977, otters were added to the list of protected animals in England, posing a threat to the future of the purebred Otterhound in the UK. In response, The Kennel Club opened registration to hounds from two purebred packs: the Dumfriesshire Otter Hunt, presided over by Capt. John Bell-Irving, and the Kendal and District Otter Hunt. In 1978, Kendal Nimrod became the first Otterhound to compete in the English show ring.

Otterhounds arrived in the United States around 1910, primarily used in the field without registration. They were occasionally crossed with Foxhounds, and no efforts were made to breed pure Otterhounds. However, some purebred hounds from the early litters found homes. One of these, Bessie Blue, was purchased by Dr. Hugh Mouat, a veterinarian in Ithaca, NY. She was bred to Badger, another early import, marking the start of the Otterhound’s presence in the U.S.

Today, the Otterhound is still quite rare. Although few are used for scent hunting of raccoon, mink, bear, and mountain lion, more Otterhounds are seen in conformation, obedience, agility, search and rescue, including cadaver recovery, and as service dogs.

The Otterhound hunts its quarry on land and water, requiring unique traits among hounds. It is a large, rough-coated hound with an imposing head that conveys strength and dignity, a strong body, and a long-striding action suitable for long days of work. The Otterhound is amiable and boisterous, with a tenacious pursuit drive.

The Standard

The parts of the Otterhound must fit together in a way that promotes tireless, graceful, and efficient movement. Any departure from the standard is considered a fault, with the seriousness judged in proportion to the degree of deviation.

Size, Proportion & Substance

• Males: 24″-27″, 75-115 pounds
• Females: 23″-26″, 65-100 pounds

A dog with insufficient leg length would need to swim rather than wade. Otterhounds are slightly rectangular, with the length from the shoulder to the tail base being slightly greater than the height at the withers. Balance, soundness, and type are prioritized over size.

Otterhounds are often required to hunt as much as 18 miles over rough terrain. They need great strength, endurance, and courage. Strong, dense bones with good substance and broad muscles are essential. While broad, heavy muscles may be more efficient in burning energy, they do not respond as quickly to action as smaller, longer muscles.

The Head

The head is considered majestic, being large, fairly narrow, and well-covered with hair. Its measurement extends from the point of the occiput to the tip of the nose, with the muzzle approximately equal in length to the skull. For a dog measuring 26″ at the withers, the head should be 11″-12″ long. Note that the British standard allows for a slightly shorter muzzle than the skull. The planes of the skull and muzzle are parallel. The skull is only slightly domed, and young hounds may have a prominent occiput. The stop is not pronounced.

The muzzle should be square, with no signs of snippiness. An Otterhound must possess a strong, crushing grip. A snippy hound with a lack of fill beneath the eyes is likely to have short tooth roots and consequently, a weaker grip in the molars. The flews are deep but not pendulous to prevent the otter from grabbing hold. The Otterhound standard prefers a scissors bite; however, the position of the front incisors plays only a minimal role in the crushing grip that allows the hound to overpower its quarry. An overshot mouth is often a result of a receding jaw, which results in a less powerful bite.

The nose is large and dark, usually black, but it may be slate-colored or brown in blue or liver hounds. In the United States, the standard calls for a fully pigmented nose, which does not affect the dog’s hunting abilities. Wide-open, forward-facing nostrils are crucial for providing the large surface area needed for enhanced scenting abilities.

The expression and demeanor of the Otterhound are amiable. Aggressiveness or shyness is not acceptable, as otter hunting was often a spectator sport, and hounds should never terrorize the neighbors.

The eyes are deep-set, with only slight visibility of haw. They are typically dark brown, although they may vary slightly with coat color. As with nose color, the eye color does not impact the Otterhound’s hunting capabilities. A round, prominent eye is at risk of being scratched in the field and should be severely penalized.

Ears

The ears are a defining feature of Otterhound type. They are long and pendulous, with the leading edge rolling to create a draped appearance. Ears are set at or below the level of the eye. When excited, dogs often pull their ears high on their heads. Show photographers should avoid throwing objects to capture the dog’s attention.

The ears should reach at least to the tip of the nose, and the leather is thick and well-covered with hair. A thin ear is likely to rip in the field. Because the ear is nearly water-tight, Otterhounds are prone to frequent ear infections. The inside of the ear may be trimmed for health reasons.

Neck, Topline & Body

The neck is thick and powerful, designed to hold the head above water and long enough to reach the ground while hunting on land. However, longer muscles can sometimes lack strength. The neck blends smoothly into the shoulders. A ewe neck would severely compromise the cervical ligaments, making it exhausting to keep the head above water. A slight dewlap is permissible. A dog without thick, protective skin around the neck would be vulnerable to critical, potentially fatal wounds from their quarry. The abundance of hair on the neck often makes it appear shorter than it actually is.

The topline is level from the withers to the base of the tail. Otterhounds have an oval-shaped rib cage, with ribs extending well back to provide a large area for the heart and lungs. The brisket line runs parallel to the ground up to the 8th or 9th rib; an upward sweep would impair heart and lung capacity. A rounded rib cage would also affect the chest cavity. The chest is deep, reaching at least to the elbows in a mature hound, although this is usually evident in young dogs as well. The forechest is prominent.

The loin is short, broad, and strong. A rise over the loin should not be confused with thick muscle mass; a long loin often correlates with straight shoulders and should be penalized.

Tail

The tail is set high and reaches at least to the hock. It is carried in a sabre fashion and should never be curled over the back. The muscles carrying the tail are a continuation of the muscles in the loin. The tail has an extremely thick root and tapers to a point, with good feathering. Huntsmen often recognize their hounds only by the tips of their tails when hunting in thick brush.

Forequarters

The front assembly is perhaps the most important part of the Otterhound. It must be strong enough to support the dog’s weight and absorb the shock of gaiting. The shoulders form the foundation of this assembly. Since Otterhounds single track at a slower speed than most other breeds, a loaded shoulder that pushes the elbows out often leads to single tracking, which may be rewarded by inexperienced observers. This can quickly lead to fatigue. A straight shoulder will shorten the stride and also contribute to fatigue.

The legs are strongly boned and straight. Pasterns are slightly sprung, with the heel pad directly under the center of gravity. A pastern that is too straight will shift weight onto the toes and may cause injury, which is also a risk if the pasterns turn in or out. The added load on the bones can lead to the front end breaking down more quickly than in a well-constructed hound. It is not unusual to find a well-constructed hound still hunting at the age of 10. Dewclaws may be removed.

The feet are extremely large and broad, with webbing between the toes that allows the foot to spread over rocky, uneven terrain. The condition of the pads is crucial, especially the heel pad, which must withstand the shock of gaiting. Paper-thin or splayed feet are unacceptable.

Hindquarters

The rear assembly is designed more for locomotion than for weight-bearing. The thighs and second thighs are large, broad, and powerful, while the croup is flat. Stifles are moderately bent; a straight stifle would shorten the stride and lead to early fatigue. The hocks are well let down and short compared to the length of other bones, which aids in increasing the Otterhound’s endurance.

Gait

The Otterhound must demonstrate the ability to work for long hours. There is no wasted motion in their gait, which is maintained over many miles. They move freely with great forward reach and drive, displaying a loose, shambling walk that springs into a loose, very long striding, active trot. Te head is extended forward when trotting. Te Otterhound singletracks at a slow speed and may shuffle at a walk or slow trot as lifting the foot high off the ground would require excess energy. However, the “Otterhound shuffle” may not be appreciated when the dog is active or alert as in the show ring. While it is suggested that the Otterhound be shown on a loose lead, this is not usually possible because of their short attention span and instinct to follow their nose.

Coat

The coat is another essential feature of the breed. Texture is more important than coat length, and color is immaterial. The coat must be oily to enhance water resistance, complemented by a short, woolly undercoat for warmth. A soft coat would become extremely heavy when wet, hindering endurance. A lack of an undercoat is a serious fault, although it’s important to note that Otterhounds typically lose most, if not all, of their undercoat during the summer months.

While black or dark-colored hair is always thicker than white or blonde hair, softness should never be tolerated. Otterhounds should not be discriminated against based on color. Like all dogs, Otterhounds should be shown and kept clean. A freshly bathed dog with a proper coat will not be adversely affected by a shampoo bath, although the oil may not be as apparent afterward.

Being a working hound, the Otterhound should be shown in its natural state. Any evidence of scissoring or sculpting should be severely penalized. A “naturally” stripped coat is permissible. Since most modern-day Otterhounds are not turned loose in the field, a bit of “tidying up” is acceptable.

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Correct Feet Form the Base for the Well-Moving Otterhound

One well-known Otterhound breeder/owner of the past would go over dogs and comment that the dog had really nice feet. Thinking this comment was made because she couldn’t think of anything else positive to say about the dog, I thought she was dismissing the dog as an “also ran.” Many experienced breeders mentoring me spent a great deal of time looking at and commenting on the feet of puppies when gathering to go over a litter of puppies. As a beginner, I couldn’t envision what they were talking about. With more experience of the breed, I have come to realize good feet are one of the most important features leading to the success of the dog in his ability to do the work assigned to his ancestors and in the work they are capable of today. A big strong dog needs big strong feet.

The Breed Standard of the AKC states: “Both front and rear feet are large, broad, compact when standing, but capable of spreading. They have thick, deep pads, with arched toes; they are web-footed. (membranes connecting the toes allow the foot to spread).”

The Otterhound Club of America Inc. Illustrated Standard goes on to say: “The substantial legs are supported on VERY THICKLY padded, large feet, the toes of which are well arched with strong nails. Providing support on marshy ground and efficiency when swimming, these broad, webbed feet are a necessity. A splay, thin or hare foot is very undesirable because they would never tolerate a hard day’s work and are susceptible to injury.”

As breeders begin examining their litters, so many features are under consideration for rating puppies. Thinking of the adult dog in the field, however, requires reflection of whether puppies will have those strong feet for adventures with their owners when walking on the road, covering ground in any terrain, or wading in rivers, lakes or streams; even beginning to swim and spread those big feet propelling them in water. For judges observing the breed, be sure the foot is not an afterthought. Look for those arched toes and well-groomed, short, strong nails. In judges education, we recommend examining the foot last. Reaching down behind the foot will allow you to feel for the thick pad without lifting the foot, but if done, lifting the foot must be done carefully to observe the pad and avoid upsetting the hound. All Otterhounds will have webbing between the toes.

Illustrations by Stephen Hubbell, from the OHCA Illustrated Standard of the Otterhound

Returning to the AKC Standard of the Otterhound:

“The Otterhound moves freely with forward reach and rear drive. The gait is smooth, effortless, and capable of being maintained for many miles. Characteristics of the Otterhound gait is a very loose, shambling walk, which springs immediately into a loose and very long striding, sound, active trot with natural extension of the head. The gallop is smooth and exceptionally long striding. Otterhounds single track at slow speeds. Otterhounds do not lift their feet high off the ground and may shuffle when they walk or move at a slow trot.”

Be aware there is often not enough room at dog shows for rings large enough to accommodate the needed space to show the true gait of the Otterhound. At a show with a larger number of the breed, it helps to reduce the number of dogs in the ring at a time for the movement portion of the
judging procedure.

The Otterhound Club Illustrated Standard describes the movement very clearly:

“The Otterhound must be considered a movement breed. It was developed for a specific job, and that job requires strength, stamina, and agility. A hound that does not possess sound movement is incorrect, no matter what the other attributes. To lose the qualities that make the breed a tireless hunter, is to lose the true Otterhound. Because the Otterhound will cover many miles in a day’s work, he should move freely and easily with some flexibility, giving the impression that he could move thus for a long period of time. A well-constructed Otterhound will move well, for, in the matter of gait, function follows form. Balance and symmetry equal effortless movement, capable of high performance. A smooth, lithe gait is essential, the stride should be exceptionally long with plenty of reach, the moderate angulation fore and aft allows for optimal balance and drive.

“Evidence in lack of balance may be indicated by the hound that sidewinds, crabs, or moved with an exaggerated kick behind, all being faulty. Loose, long stride is not to be confused with wild, erratic movement. A prancing hound, though showy in the ring, is incorrect, as this is a wasted, inefficient, tiring motion. Even though the Otterhound should not be asked to move at excessive speed, question the hound who cannot increase to a moderate gait without galloping.

“The Otterhound should be shown on a loose lead so that he may extend his neck and thereby move in a natural manner. The so-called Otterhound ‘shuffle’ is observed when the hound is moved in a walk or slow trot. Some Otterhounds will occasionally pace when starting to move, or when moving slow in a restricted area, this is a relaxing gait, and should not be penalized as long as they hit their stride when moving into a faster gait, resulting in the strong, active trot.

“The Otterhound must stand with width both fore and aft to properly support the deep, strong body. It is advisable to have a hound walked out to stand naturally, then observe how he places his legs under his body, as well as the angulation of the stifle and hock. Walking slowly, he will move rather wide. As his speed increases, the legs will converge under the body. Going away, the hocks are parallel, the rear driving. Cow hocks, hocks rubbing, or hocks crossing behind are serious faults. Approaching, the legs should be well extended with only minimal in-turning of the feet. There should be no looseness of pasterns causing paddling and/or winging. The elbows are free, neither tight and pinched, nor ‘flying.’ All action must be free flowing, powerful, and driving.”

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Breeding Your Otterhound – This article was written by a collaboration of breeders for Otterhound University

If you decide to breed your Otterhound, make sure you are prepared to do the following:

1. Have flexible working hours.
2. Be able to function on little or almost no sleep. It may be necessary to supplement feed puppies if the mother is unable to or doesn’t produce enough milk.
3. Have a least one person to stay with the puppies at all times for a minimum of two and a half to three weeks.
4. Be prepared to deal with illness or the death of any puppies you place or decide to keep.
5. Be prepared to deal with the death or illness of your Otterhound bitch.
6. Be prepared to keep puppies you can’t place and the possibility of caring for geriatric dogs.
7. Be aware that puppies are extremely noisy and require hours of cleaning up after and socializing.
8. Be aware that you are responsible if you place puppies that are not healthy. You need to be prepared to pay for any health issues that arise due to genetic defects.
9. Be aware that you will need to take puppies back if they do not work out in the homes you have placed them in.
10. Be prepared to pay hundreds or even thousands of dollars in vet bills if something “goes wrong” with the litter.
11. Double-check the contract for the pet you bought and make sure there are no restrictions on breeding your Otterhound.

The Otterhound Club of America’s Recommendations on Breeding Your Hound

New Otterhound owners sometimes wonder if they should breed their new companion. As a buyer, you have been carefully vetted by your breeder but the responsibility for keeping and breeding an intact Otterhound is an awesome one. It is not the best choice for everyone for many reasons. Because the number of breeding Otterhounds in the world is very limited, the answer is not as easy as it is for a more popular breed. Your breeder may sell you a puppy with a limited registration that states that no progeny from this hound may be registered. Alternatively, your breeder may ask you to refrain from spay/neuter at an early age for several reasons:

Growth plates on puppies do not close until the animal has reached his/her full potential at about 18-24 months of age. It is optimal for Otterhounds to grow to their potential.

One cannot ignore current research that indicates there is an increased risk from osteosarcoma, hemangiosarcoma, hypothyroidism, and other less frequently occurring diseases with neutering male dogs. Though mammary cancer is virtually eliminated by spaying females by the age of 2.5 years, the incidence of the above listed health concerns are increased.*

Your breeder may want to consider the use of your male dog in his/her breeding program, to avoid theoveruse of one male from a particular litter, as each hound has a unique set of genes to provide. Your breeder will also be able to advise you about the use of your male to the general population of Otterhounds, and thus, may ask you to show your hound so that others may be able to see him and consider his use.

Breeding is not a casual undertaking. The Otterhound carries genetic defects, as do all breeds. Ours include, but are not limited to, hip dysplasia, Glanzman’s Thrombasthenia (GT) (a bleeding disorder), and epilepsy. Though some issues can be avoided by careful screening, not all can be eliminated. The Otterhound Club of America advises against breeding an Otterhound before all genetic testing can be completed, which means at least 24 months of age, and usually later, to observe the incidence of genetic disease among littermates, parents, grandparents, and their siblings as well. The more knowledge available, the better choices can be made.

Breeding is a huge commitment. As Otterhound breeders, we are responsible for all puppies produced for their lifetime. Our breeders are asked by our Code of Ethics to do testing for hip dysplasia, genetic testing for GT, and to submit blood to the University of Missouri epilepsy study, though no results can yet be determined. Temperament must be considered, for this trait is also hereditary.

As with all American Kennel Club (AKC) recognized purebred dogs, there is an approved breed standard for the Otterhound. The standard of perfection is a word picture of how the Otterhoundshould look, move, and act. Although a perfect Otterhound has never been produced, responsible breeders strive to produce dogs that conform to this breed standard. Otterhounds with serious deviation in appearance, structure, movement, and temperament should never be bred. A copy of the breed standard can be found at the end of this publication. Your breeder can help you assess the conformation of your Otterhound throughout his development.

In conclusion, breeding dogs is a real responsibility. One must have knowledge of what makes top-quality animals, an understanding of pedigrees and genetics, and the proper facilities to keep and socialize the puppies and to take them back, if the situation demands it. A breeder must have the financial resources for shots, food, breeding costs, and vet care for the bitch and her puppies. A breeder needs to decide what he/she considers the most important traits of an Otterhound and how one’s own dog fits those and what one wants to produce from a breeding.

According to the Otterhound World Health Survey done in 2009, the average litter size is six puppies, but it can be ten or more. It’s a huge undertaking to find suitable homes for all of these puppies. You must be prepared to keep puppies if you have been unable to make placements for this rare breed hound, as substandard homes would lead to big problems for you and for our breed club. As a group of Otterhound breeders, we have been, and will continue to be, very careful with placements of our pups.

The number of Otterhounds in the United States has remained relatively consistent over the years, with an average of 42.4 puppies registered each year from 2015 to 2019, which is the last year for which we have full statistics. We believe there are about 450-500 Otterhounds in the United States. (Which you can get by multiplying the average number Otterhounds by 10.8 years, which we believe is how long the average Otterhound lives.)

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Many judges have asked during our breed seminars about acceptable colors for the Otterhound. Here is the answer and some examples of the combinations through pictures. Some of these photos were taken at the 2021 OHCA National Specialty in Ohio, also showing the Otterhound’s beautiful reach and drive.

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Any color or combination is acceptable. There should be no discrimination on the basis of color.

 

AKC Breed Standard of the Otterhound

“Any color or combination is acceptable. There should be no discrimination on the basis of color. The nose should be dark and fully pigmented, black, liver, or slate, depending on the color of the hound. Eye rim pigment should match the nose.”

All Otterhounds have at least two colors in their coat. Most Otterhounds are varying degrees of black and tan. They are usually born dark-coated and then continue to “grizzle out” through the years. Any hound color is acceptable, including grizzle, red, liver, blue, tan, tri-color (white with black and tan), and wheaten (light tan).

Markings are badger pie, black, tan, grizzle, liver, white, lemon, silver, tan and white, and white and tan. Although eye rims and noses are usually black, they match the color of the hound. The color of an Otterhound at birth, or even as a young dog, is not necessarily predictable as to how it will appear as a mature adult.

Otterhounds have a shaggy, coarse coat with length anywhere between 2-4 inches. Otterhounds can come in many color combinations, and the most common color for an Otterhound is black and tan. Otterhound colors include black and tan (can be a light gray and blonde with a “saddle”), wheaten/blonde, red grizzle, liver and tan (can vary from medium-dark brown to very light), black (or almost black with lighter markings on the head and feet), and tri- or parti-color (white or off-white with patches that may be very faint). Otterhounds change their color more than most any other breed,as you will see on these pages.

Picture examples of Otterhound coloring for puppies and adults:

Black and Tan Puppies and Adults

Typically, a dark color will make up the majority of their body. The tan side, however, will show up on their face, abdomen, tail, and paws. Otterhounds are most frequently found in black and tan.

Wheaten Otterhound Puppies and Adults

They’ll have light-colored, brownish or blonde fur. They may occasionally be completely wheaten or blonde with darker streaks. On their paws, cheeks, belly, and tail, certain dogs will have brownish fur in contrast to others with light streaks. Some may even combine the two colors, with one color predominating.

Tri- or Parti-Color White or Off-White with Patches of Liver, Tan and Black, Otterhound Puppies and Adults

Liver and Tan Otterhound Puppies and Adults

Usually, one color dominates over the other. The Otterhound’s colors will change and become more dispersed as it grows older. Some Liver and Tan Otterhounds remain dark and others are as light as wheatens. They will have a liver nose.

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Interview with Hound Group Breeders – Nancy & Karmen Lange – OHeavens Otterhounds

OHeavens Otterhounds, owned by Nancy and Karmen Lange, are collaborative breeders. Mother and daughter have worked hard over the years, learning together to improve the family’s breeding program which focuses on the health and temperament of the Otterhound. Nancy Lange has been a registered nurse since 1977; health for both humans and canines is a serious concern for her. Karmen has been involved with her mom and had her first Otterhound at the age of five. Through the years, some breeding results, both for themselves and for others, have caused them to notice signs of deteriorating health in the Otterhound. This concern led Karmen Lange to her interest in genetics as her college major, to better understand what could boost the OHeavens breeding program. OHeavens is owner-handled.

Where do we live? How many years in dogs? How many years as a breeder?

My home is in Marshall, Michigan, and is the place where Karmen grew up. It is a quaint small town in Mid-Michigan. Initially in Mastiffs at age 21, we turned to Otterhounds in 2001. Our first few years in the breed were difficult, but in 2004 we had our first litter.

What is our kennel name? How many dogs do we currently keep?

OHeavens is our kennel name. This came from my reaction to the antics of things the dogs did as they cavorted about the house, when they did something funny. The name also made sense because of my love of angels. We currently keep four Otterhounds, including one that will stay with us from our present litter of thirteen.

Which show dogs from the past have been our noteworthy winners?

OHeavens’ noteworthy show dogs include: CH UKC CH Scentasia’s Bedazzled in Diamonds CGC(Dazzle), multiple Group placements including Group One, Best of Breed-winning; GCH UKC CH Kalevala Knockin’ On OHeavens Door CGC (Gabriel), multiple Group-winning, No. 4 Otterhound in 2016 All-Breed Standings, AKC NOHS Best in Show; GCHB UKC CH OHeavens I Believe in Miracles (Miracle), multiple Group-winning/placing NOHS Best in Show; and CH UKC CH OHeavens Worth Repeating CGC (Echo), multiple UKC Best in Show-winning and AKC Group-placing.

Which have been our most influential sires and dams?

Our most recent breeding of CH Conestoga Doin It For OHeavens Sake (Raphael) and CH OHeavens Blinded By Science (Beaker), as well as our previous litter, has shown regenerative trends with bigger litters and regularly ovulating bitches that has led us to be optimistic about the future. Some of our previous breedings resulted in small litters, lower survival rates, and sometimes failure to produce.

Can we talk a bit about our facilities? Where are our puppies whelped? How are they raised?

Puppies are whelped in our home in our dedicated office area. We are influenced by, and grateful to, our various mentors over the years. We are close followers of Dr. Marty Greer, DVM, JD and we use her book, Canine Reproduction and Neonatology. We study Puppy Culture and also use Early Neurologic Stimulation (ENS).

What is our “process” for selecting show puppies? At what age do we make our decisions?

The age when we make decisions about puppies is from 7.5 to 8 weeks. We believe it “takes a village.” We make choices based on the Otterhound Breed Standard and we include temperament testing prior to placing any of our puppies.

How do we prepare our pups for the show ring? Does our breed require any special preparation?

Preparing a puppy for a show career takes exposure to lots of people, classes, and having a variety of people go over them as well as socializing with them. We use UKC as a springboard to AKC and take our puppies to B matches. Our breed is wash & wear. Bathing and grooming are completed at home, with quite simple preparations on-site before the show.

Can we share our thoughts on how our breed is currently presented in the show ring?

We believe that in some cases there is a trend of more grooming done on show dogs than the Standard suggests. We are seeing more “managed” coat types rather than the functional coat of the working dog.

Are there any health-related concerns within our breed? Any special nutritional needs?

The more serious health issues in the Otterhound are hip dysplasia and seizures, as these can affect both the owner and the dog’s life. We are seeing an increase in cancer in our breed, but not to the extent seen in other breeds. We also believe that probiotics are essential for healthy GI function along with a well-considered, balanced diet.

In our opinion, is your breed in good condition overall? Any trends that warrant concern?

Improvements in hip dysplasia have been seen since the early years of Otterhounds in the US. Improvements in diet, consideration of exercise appropriate for young dogs, as well as breeding for improvement have been effective. Though Glanzmann’s Thrombasthenia (GT) was a genetic disorder in the past, genetic testing has virtually eliminated affected dogs in the breed. We believe it is imperative to provide openness and communication on health issues. Constant consideration of past breedings informs the future for OHeavens.

Is our breed well-suited to be a family dog? Who are the best candidates to own our breed?

Selecting owners for puppies is important to us. We believe it is critical for puppy owners to understand the nature of a Hound whose nose is most important to them. We recommend that the Otterhound is not a breed for the first-time dog owner. Best candidates are folks who have owned Hounds previously, families with older kids, active people who might enjoy Performance Sports, Tracking, and other scent-based activities. Active, older adults or those retired with more free time are also great choices of people to own Otterhounds. We encourage participation in
Obedience classes.

Do we feel that our breed is supported by a sufficient number of preservation breeders?

Because this is a rare breed with approximately 25 to 30 active breeders worldwide, we encourage our puppy buyers to do their part. Even if the owners of males are not interested in providing stud services, we ask them to participate with the Otterhound Club of America Reproduction Bank, Inc. and have their dog collected; to contribute to the gene pool for use in the future. This innovative non-profit was started by the Otterhound Club of America Inc. and was used as a model for the AKC’s own Purebred Preservation Bank.

For a bit of fun, what’s the most amusing thing we’ve ever experienced with a Hound?

Our Otterhound, Gabriel, loved to run. We’d heard of some Otterhounds trying out Lure Coursing around the country and thought that it might be great for him. At a show we attended there was an opportunity to give it a try during a lull in our events, so we signed him up. He enthusiastically lined up for the start and headed “pell-mell” for the lure for about one hundred feet. Then, the lure switched directions and headed left. Gabriel kept going straight ahead, with Karmen trailing after him for another five hundred feet. He’d still be going if he hadn’t decided to stop and take a leak on the bright yellow porta-potty at the end of the field. Needless to say, the run in “show clothes” was not a happy feat!

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Picking an Otterhound Puppy | As I trotted quickly after my three-month-old on a short puppy trail, I kept thinking, “I’ve done it again.” Once again I picked the pup with the most energy and drive to take home. “Higgins,” like “Spirit,” has one speed—as fast as possible. Both are dogs I should have had when I was much younger. Over the years, I have had sweet, laid-back dogs and loved them dearly. But the high-energy puppy brimming with joy is the one that usually stays or picks me to come home with. Sometimes they are exhausting, but they do make good workers. So, what do I want when I pick an Otterhound puppy?

The conformation standard is based on the attributes needed to pursue and catch river otters, so aworking dog needs a good structure. I am attracted by good bone, proportion, angulation, and head. I have never tried to pick a pup at birth; I’m too concerned with a smooth delivery and healthy puppy. Usually the puppy personalities start to appear before I assess structure, so I’m not sure I can separate the two. Correct proportions, angulation, bone, coat, and head are key attributes of the breed. Sure, some dogs can be great hunters and track-ers because their hunting drive is so strong it overcomes a few conformation flaws. And some beautifully struc-tured hounds lack the drive to work, hence the saying, “That dog can’t hunt.” But when you get a combination of structure and drive, you have the makings of a winner. Most Otterhound owners call persistence stubborn-ness and sometimes see it as a flaw. I think persistence is necessary in a dog that has to keep hunting faint scents over rough terrain and rushing rivers for hours at a time. Spirit and Higgins are both very determined and always have been. On a search, or even in training in the sum-mer, I have to watch Spirit carefully to be sure she doesn’t overheat, because she never gives up when working.
Persistent dogs focus on their task and don’t want to give up until they finish. While Higgins is too young to do long trails, he shows his drive and enthusiasm no matter what he is doing. Persistent puppies throw themselves into everything at full power, whether it be tracking, eating, running or playing. It is hard to switch that focus off, and that is what I want in a tracking dog that has to ignore other scents, traffic, noise, and other dogs while working.

Puppies, like babies, want to learn and, in fact, are learning all the time—sometimes things we didn’t intend to teach them. Most hounds know the sound of a refrigerator opening and come run-ning. (If Icould only make that sound when I wanted my off-leash dogs to come…) My dogs have learned how to open gates, doors, and dog food containers just by watching me do it. Higgins knows exactly where the dog food is and jumps on the bin when I go to open it. His grandmother actually could open it, but he’s young and I have much to look forward to. They all surf the countertops for food if given the opportunity. But that same curiosity and zest makes it easy to teach them tracking and so many skills. I find Otterhounds are smart and learn quickly.

Personality is another key ingredient. Otterhounds are large and strong, so they need to be very friendly and love people; espe-cially a trailing hound. If finding a person is the goal of every trail, people must be the most delightful reward. Once a dog finds a per-son, he/she can’t ever show aggression, even if a frightened demen-tia patient does. Spirit’s biggest reward is lying next to a person who will pet her and tell her she’s wonderful. She has been known to moan in delight and roll on her back for a tummy rub. Higgins loves to lick the person he finds and he loves a food reward.

Confidence is just as important as friendliness. Even daily life and trips away from home are difficult for a frightened, nervous dog. How could a shy dog be successful working through crowds, in traffic, and past flashing lights from police cars, fire engines, and ambulances? The pup who shows curiosity about everything and has no fear of noise or new objects is the best candidate for a job and for life. Personality is both genetic and nurtured, and so much depends on a good breeder who will introduce puppies to a variety of objects to climb and play on, to new people who will hold and cuddle them, and to all sorts of sounds and bangs.

Watching a hound pursue a scent, despite distractions, over pavement, through woods and fields, and across creeks amazes me. They can do so much that we do not understand and they do it with joy. I am honored to be a partner with an Otterhound, even if they exhaust me trying to keep up with them.

Picking an Otterhound Puppy
By Eibhlin Glennon,
Riverrun Otterhounds

This article first appeared as the Otterhound Breed Column in the AKC Gazette www.akc.org/products-services/magazines/akc-gazette/ and is reproduced here with permission.

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Purebred Otterhounds – The Undoodles
By Eibhlin Glennon

“Is that a labradoodle?”

“No, it’s an Otterhound.”

“A what? I never heard of them. What were they bred to do?”

“Hunt river otters.”

“Oh. My friend has a labradoodle.”

Probably every purebred Otterhound owner has been part of a conversation like this. Doodles, labras or goldens, are soaring in popularity as are a number of cross-breeds, frequently called “designer breeds.” At the same time, some of our oldest breeds, like purebred Otterhounds, are fighting for survival. All dog breeds were “designed” by humans through selective breeding, usually to perform certain functions like hunting, herding or guarding. Their distinctive appearances resulted from the traits needed to perform their jobs.

Today’s designer dogs are often bred solely for looks. Take the Labradoodles and Goldendoodles who, like Otterhounds, are large, shaggy dogs with doofus expressions that attract owners and passersby. Unlike Doodles, purebred Otterhounds have predictable looks and behaviors, dominated by their sense of smell. In contrast, despite claims that Doodles do not shed, they wear a variety of coats from slightly wiry to curly to soft and fluffy. Most shed and mat, thanks to one parent, and need to be clipped, thanks to the other. The combination of the Poodle hair that keeps growing and the Lab and/or Golden fur that sheds profusely creates a dog who needs a vacuum and a groomer. They tend to be more substantial than Poodles, with many of their features. Curiously, many of them are larger than either of the breeds behind them and few of them hunt, unlike the Goldens, Labs, and Poodles in their ancestry.

Purebred Otterhounds are an old breed of Scenthounds with wiry outer coats that are waterproof, and softer undercoats to keep them warm as they patrol land and water to keep river otters from decimating the fish populations in the British Isles. A good coat repels water and dries quickly. Everything about this scenthound, from its size to its coat to its large feet with webbing to its sickle tail waving in the tall brush, is designed to make it efficient at scenting and pursuing its prey on land and water. Persistent and independent, Otterhounds are pack hounds and love fellow dogs, cats, and of course, people. But more than anything, they have those noses inherited from their Bloodhound and Welsh Foxhound ancestors that can scent on land and water. All those cute features have a purpose. While otters are endangered, the hounds still pursue careers in tracking, trailing. And while they shed, they shed less than most dogs and their hair never needs to be clipped. Otterhounds do not need groomers—just a comb and brush applied once a week.

Purebred Otterhounds are an old breed of Scenthounds with wiry outer coats that are waterproof, and softer undercoats to keep them warm as they patrol land and water to keep river otters from decimating the fish populations in the British Isles.

The Doodle population is on the rise, despite the often-high purchase price and upkeep costs, while the purebred Otterhound is nearly as endangered as the otters they pursued. With fewer than 1,000 remaining in the world, these clowns with the keen noses and sociable nature may soon go the way of the Passenger Pigeon. And that would be a loss. They possess most of the traits and looks of the Doodle, and more—and they breed true. They can hunt, track, and visit folks in nursing homes and hospitals, and kids in schools. They make great bed warmers on winter nights and they can find your keys and gloves for you. And they need us fanciers to insure that they are not casualties of our newer designer breeds. Looks aren’t everything.

Purebred Otterhounds – The Undoodles
By Eibhlin Glennon

This article first appeared as the February 2022 Otterhound Breed Column in the AKC Gazette (https://www.akc.org/products-services/magazines/akc-gazette/) and is reproduced here with permission.

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