1. How were you first introduced to the sport of purebred dogs? To your breed?

Allison Kennedy: I was first introduced to the sport as a child, growing up watching AKC National Championship reruns on Animal Planet. I attended my first dog show (out of pure luck) at age 9. My parents enrolled me in the local 4-H dog club and became members of our local kennel club. I was first involved in Beagles, but met my Belgian Malinois mentor when I was a pre-teen. I ended up getting my first Malinois from her in 2021 and acquired my second one from her in 2022.

2. How many years in dogs? In your breed?

Allison Kennedy: I have been in dogs now for 15 years. My first breed was Beagles, though I have shifted my focus from Beagles to Malinois. I have been learning about Malinois since I was a pre-teen, but did not acquire my first one until 2021. So, three years officially.

3. Do you attend show handling classes? Have you attended in-person handling seminars?

Allison Kennedy: I have attended handling classes in the past, but I have not recently. I would have loved to attend a George Alston handling seminar.

4. Have you found virtual learning tools to be helpful? Videos? Websites? Social Media? AKC Canine College?

Allison Kennedy: I have used the Canine College before and found it to be resourceful. I do like listening to the “Pure Dog Talk” podcast to help broaden my general dog knowledge. Will Alexander’s YouTube videos are also resourceful!

5. Do you compete in the National Owner-Handled Series? Are rankings important to you?

Allison Kennedy: I do compete in the National Owner-Handled Series with my Malinois. I find it to be a fun competition and it gives my dogs another opportunity to be in the ring. Rankings are important to me, but not as important as spending time with my dog. Spending time with my dogs will always be the most important.

6 In which class(es) are you most likely to enter your dog(s)?

Allison Kennedy: I will enter my dogs in Open (if not yet a champion) and Best of Breed. I also enter NOHS BOB if available.

7. Who have been your mentor(s) as an Owner Handler?

Allison Kennedy: In Malinois, Lynn Daniel of Lynnhaven Kennels has been my mentor. Two of my biggest mentors growing up were June Cohron, DVM (Sealyham Terriers) and Jill Wilkinson (Brittanys).

8. What are the benefits of competing with your breed(s) as an Owner Handler?

Allison Kennedy: The benefit is, you get to be the one out there with your dog. Nothing can beat the bond between dog and owner. I have always owner-handled my dogs and will continue to do so.

9. How are you encouraging new exhibitors to participate in the sport?

Allison Kennedy: I try to be a welcoming person to the sport and breed! I allow people to ask questions and help them in their research. One of my favorite things to do is teach (I am currently majoring in Special Education at James Madison University to become a licensed Special Education teacher), and there is nothing better than being able to teach people about the breed and sport I hold near and dear to my heart.

10. Are there any suggestions you’d like to pass along about the presentation of your breed(s).

Allison Kennedy: Malinois are dogs that do not require a whole lot of grooming in order to get ring-ready. They are a wash-and-wear breed. They shouldn’t be overgroomed.

11. What are your goals as an Owner Handler? Is there a victory that has eluded you?

Allison Kennedy: I would like to eventually have my dogs in the Top 10 to get invited to the AKC National Championship, to compete in the NOHS event. A Group One or BIS NOHS would be nice too!

12. Is there a funny story that you can share about your experiences as an Owner Handler?

Allison Kennedy: One time, when I was very, very new to shows, I was waiting outside the ring with my Beagle. I heard my number called, so I walked into the ring. Turns out, they weren’t calling in the 13-inch Beagle No. 7. They were calling in the Longhaired Dachshund No. 7. Embarrassing, to say the least! The Ring Steward was at least appreciative that I was listening to her.

The post The Owner Handler | Allison Kennedy appeared first on Showsight Magazine.

Beagle History

Tone-age people in Europe
Some 20,000 years ago, tamed dogs to help them track game.

700s
St. Hubert, the Patron Saint of the huntsmen, kept a pack of pure hounds in the Ardennes, Belgium, during the early 700s.

1066
William the Conqueror introduced the Talbot Hound when he invaded England from France in 1066. The Talbot hound became the old Southern Hound and had a strong influence on the breed’s development.

1695
King William III, William of Orange, King of England, Scotland, and Ireland, kept a pack of Beagles. William organized the great hunt at Welbeck in 1695 that was followed by 400 horsemen. Later hunts were enjoyed on foot.

1735
William Somerville wrote the classic poem, “The Chase,” in 1735. He kept twelve couple of Beagles.

1845
Royal Rock Beagles, the oldest active pack in the world, was established.

1857
The Cockermouth Beagles were established in 1857 at Cockermouth, England. Dr. John Henry “Stonehenge” Walsh, the first all-breed judge in England, referred to the Cockermouth Beagles to compile the “points and description,” the first Beagle standard.

1876
Beagles were exhibited for the first time in all-breed shows in the US in the three cities of Chicago, New York (not Westminster), and Kansas City. Lee (Turner’s Warrior x Rowett’s Rosie) placed first at Kansas City.

1877
Three of the seven Beagles exhibited at the first annual Westminster show were bred by General Richard Rowett.

1884
Dr. L.H. Twaddell, General Richard Rowett, and Norman Elmore authored the first American Beagle standard at the request of the American English Beagle Club. The standard was based on the Stonehenge standard.

1890
The National Beagle Club “merged into” the American English Beagle Club. A field trial was held during the first year. 13″ Dual Ch Frank Forest was named the winner of the first event.

1901
Ch Windholme’s Bangle, a bitch, was the first Beagle to receive a best in show. Windholme was the leading kennel and pack in the early twentieth century.

1921
F. Banting and H. Best injected the first dog, a 15″ tri-colored Beagle named Marjorie, with the new insulin extract that has saved the lives of numerous human and animal diabetics.

1925
The Wisconsin Snow-Shoe Beagle Club was formed. Four years later, the first licensed Beagle specialty was held. Imp Torpe Satchville Bellman was named the first Best in Show. The Wisconsin Beagle Club is the oldest Beagle specialty in the world.

1930
“Snow-Shoe” was dropped when cottontails were hunted. Also, the 13″ gold and white Ch Saddlerock Sandman was named number one sire and proved that “any hound color” was permissible.

1937-38
Mrs. W. “Sadie” Edmiston received three bests in show with her 14″ bitch, Ch Merry Hicks. Sadie was the first AKC female all-breed judge. Also, Fd Ch Sammy R was said to be “one of the very best 13″ dog hounds in America today.”

1945
A picture of Ch Duke Sinatra was published. A painting of Duke Sinatra is permanently displayed at the AKC offices in Raleigh, NC. The picture is often mentioned as the epitome of the Beagle standard.

1949
Life Magazine featured 15″ Am Can Ch Tornridge Wrinkles in its publication. Wrinkles was the number one conformation sire of all time.

1954
Fd Ch Gray’s Linesman remained the number one field trial sire of all time. Lineman was known as the “sire of sires.” Owned by Elmer Gray, Indianapolis.

1970
Eight-time best in show winner 15″ King’s Creek Triple Treat was named Best of Breed at the first national specialty held at Aldie, Virginia. Bred by all-breed judge Michelle Leathers Billings.

1976
Seven-time Best in Show winner 15″ Ch Navan’s Triple Trouble Rick was the first Beagle to win successive breeds at the national specialty. Bred by Nancy Vanstrum, Florida.

1980
15″ Am Can Ch Starbuck’s Hang ’Em High was named number one Beagle of all time. “Pru” amassed 21 all-breed Bests in Show and 8 specialty Bests of Breed. Bred by David and Linda Hiltz, Michigan.

1985
13″ Am Can Ch Teloca Patches Littl’ Dickens was named number one sire and 13″ Beagle of all time with 12 Best in Show wins, 1 national specialty win, and 3 Westminster varieties. Bred by Marie Shuart, Florida.

1993
Twenty-four-time best in show winner 13″ Ch Lanbur Miss Fleetwood was named number one Beagle of all time. “Judy” also received two national specialty bests of breed. Bred and co-owned by Wade Burns and Jon Woodring, North Carolina. Co-owned by Eddie Dziuk.

The post Beagle History appeared first on Showsight Magazine.

Where did you grow up?

Richard Reynolds: Although I was born in Washington, DC, most of my callow youth was spent just outside Syracuse, New York. I was a total nerd, but hunting and fishing came along, and so did American Water Spaniels. In those days, dogs roamed free in the neighborhood and there was a very nice German Shepherd named King that would come every day to accompany me on my paper route.

Do you come from a doggie family? And if not, how did the interest in breeding and showing purebred dogs begin?

Richard Reynolds: Not a doggie family at all! My widowed mother believed (quite correctly) that she would have to care for a dog, so my early pets were limited to parakeets, hamsters, and the occasional rescued wildlife. My interest in purebred dogs was awakened by an article by John Cross that appeared in the January 1954 issue of National Geographic. That piece, entitled “Westminster: The World Series of Dogdom,” stuck in my mind for years, and I kept the magazine under my mattress. I never expected to actually get to meet Patty Alston and Babs Tongren, who were featured in the article. I still have that magazine (and so does Jane Myers). To make up for the lack of the real thing, my mother bought me a large collection of china and porcelain dogs, which I proudly displayed and even entered in hobby shows at school.

Who were your mentors in the sport? Please elaborate on their significance.

Richard Reynolds: My first Beagle was purchased for $35 from a gentleman by the name of Jay Hamilton, who was considered by many to be the local vet, notwithstanding his lack of licensure. My first dog show was with a friend’s Bedlington Terrier that was a tiny bit lacking in both quality and temperament. My first “real” show dog came from Virginia Coleman, and “Ginny” was my first mentor in Beagles. She knew exactly how to push a young kid’s buttons.

In the Foxhound era, it was Nancy Penn Smith Hannum, the MFH of Mr. Stewart’s Cheshire Foxhounds. Mrs. Hannum arranged for me to be tutored and befriended in England by the Duke of Beaufort. She wasn’t afraid to break with the tradition that prohibits individual ownership of hounds, and allowed me to own and show Mr. Stewart’s Cheshire Federal.

When it came to showing, Bob and Jane Forsyth were my idols and I was fortunate to fill in for them when they had ring conflicts. Jane Kay was my first handler, and it was through her inspiration that I became an AKC-licensed professional handler. Roberta (Campbell) Krohne was my terrier go-to person. And then and now, help and encouragement from Lydia Hutchinson and her mother, Mrs. Coleman, were very much appreciated.

Your hounds and terriers have always been well known and well respected. What breeding philosophies do you adhere to?

Richard Reynolds: The hard truth is that I fall in love far too easily. A dog will come along that captures my eye and my heart, and that dog (or bitch) becomes the center of a concentrated effort to preserve its conformation and functional ability. Plum Run Hunt was started originally to serve as a vehicle to import hounds. Everything changed, though, the first time the pack opened on a fox and actually hunted. From that minute onward, no matter what the breed, I tried—and continue to try—to produce only dogs that will perform their intended function and do a damned good job of it. Performance in the designated function is as important as conformation, and maybe more so. It is only through actual proof of functional ability and temperament that we can preserve the breed type that makes each purebred unique. It’s not much of a philosophy, but I try to breed a decent-looking and highly functional animal. My success in achieving that has been through line breeding to an outstanding example of the breed. My tagline says it all: “Life’s too short to hunt with an ugly dog!”

How many dogs do you typically house? Tell us about your current facilities and how the dogs are maintained.

Richard Reynolds: The days of the large kennels, both mine and others’, are gone. I live in New Jersey about six miles from Times Square, and although my town has no specific dog limit, I try to keep it to around six dogs on the property. There are dozens more on co-ownership that sometimes rotate in and out for breeding, whelping or showing, but I mostly keep and work with the dogs that I need to hunt with. The Jagdterriers, because of their (ahem) “unique” temperaments, live in a very comfortable small kennel, but the rest are seemingly everywhere in the house.

Tell us about the Beagle and Foxhound years, and how the terriers arrived on the scene.

Richard Reynolds: I bred a lot of Beagles under the Englandale prefix and they can be found way back in some of today’s pedigrees. The truth is that I was never very happy with the Beagles I bred, and although they were winning in the show ring they didn’t make me happy. I think all Beaglers respect English Foxhounds, and by happenstance I became acquainted with Nancy Hannum. Mrs. Hannum drafted me Federal, who opened doors for the breed. Sometime thereafter, Parker Harris, a professional handler from upstate New York, died and I rescued a Canadian bitch he had been keeping. The English Foxhound gene pool is so robust and strong that even I couldn’t screw it up, and the Foxhounds proved much easier to breed successfully and produce hounds that not only pleased my eye, but worked alongside the best of them. The first humble beginnings of the dual-registered pack (AKC and MFHA) were the Springdale Hounds headquartered in Maryland on hunt country leased from the Green Spring Valley for $1.00 annually.

Terriers, of course, are part and parcel of foxhunting. This is especially true in the USA where foxes can almost always find an empty den to elude their pursuers. Our hunt came to include some broken-coated Jack Russell Terriers of the “shortie” (or puddin’) variety. They were a rag-tag lot, but performed very, very well. One of them became the housepet that travelled back and forth to the New York City apartment.

After leaving the hunt, I was looking for an AKC-registered terrier that I could show, and happened to meet up with Debbie Pritchard’s Norfolk Terriers on the street in Middleburg. I was able to acquire my first Norfolk from Eileen Needham’s Titanium breeding. To my very pleasant surprise, the Norfolk hunted as well or better than the JRTs and were ideally suited to my type of hunting at the time.

My current type of hunting requires a “hole dog,” and the Miniature Wirehaired Dachshunds arrived on the scene. After pestering Dee Hutchinson for several years, she finally consented to sell me a dog, and I acquired a proven hunting bitch (literally chained to a drain pipe in a trailer park). These two produced some of the finest working Dachshunds I have ever had the pleasure to hunt over, and I never spent a dime on show entries.

When and how did the transition to judging take place?

Richard Reynolds: “It was a dark and stormy night…” I vividly remember driving back alone from shows in Ohio in 1980, with a fairly large string of dogs. Tired, wet, hungry, and it wasn’t a particularly successful circuit. At that moment, judging seemed like a really good idea.

What about working the terriers in New York City?

Richard Reynolds: The now famous Ryder’s Alley Trencherfed Society (R.A.T.S.) that hunts rats with terriers on the streets of New York City and other places actually had its roots at a dog show. The show was at Liberty State Park and professional handler Wendy Kellerman’s set-up was overrun with rats in broad daylight. I had a couple of fairly game Norfolk Terriers that were brought over and made short work of the rats. The park superintendent saw the process and invited us back after the park closed. We hunted there for several years.

After the 9-11 tragedy in 2001, we shifted our hunts to the infamous Theater Alley and Ryder’s Alley in lower Manhattan. We’ve been prowling the alleys and promoting purebred dogs at work ever since. It’s a bit easier to sell dead rats to the media and the public at large than it is to promote purebred dogs. R.A.T.S. serves the city, the neighborhood residents, and the handlers, but most importantly, the dogs themselves. There’s nothing happier than a terrier when it’s killin’ stuff.

You have also taken a great interest over the years in helping some rare breeds get a foothold in this country. Tell us more about that activity.

Richard Reynolds: I used to volunteer to judge at the rare breed shows that were common in New Jersey. I still do. There was also the good fortune to live in the same town as an active Spanish Water Dog fancier. She asked me to inseminate her dogs and I was happy to oblige. There were nine puppies resulting and I was asked to help whelp the litter. The fledgling parent club had, at the time, not a soul experienced with the rigors and mysteries of the AKC, and I found myself as the JEC. We got it done.

Over the years, my hunting has changed a bit, and the Norfolk Terriers were no longer the most suitable breed for hunting fox and raccoon. That brought me to acquire some Jagdterriers. They’re a nifty breed whose sole purpose in life is wanton destruction. When I got my first one I was told to “put a two-inch chain around his neck. Stake him out in the back of your property and throw him a live chicken every other day.” I carefully explained that I was a very experienced breeder and judge, and that I didn’t keep my dogs that way. Now, years later, the Jagds are frequently tethered, even in kennels. We haven’t gotten to the live chicken part yet, but I can see it coming. Owning and working the breed is a life-changing experience and I’m glad to have them. Someday soon there will be a written American Standard for the breed, but formal recognition isn’t a priority.

Our sport has changed greatly since you first began as a breeder-exhibitor. What are your thoughts on the state of the fancy, and the declining number of breeders?

Richard Reynolds: I like to think that I lived through the “Golden Age” of dog shows. Things have changed, but every so often you get back to a show that is reminiscent of the way things used to be. The Crawfish Cluster in Hattiesburg, Mississippi, is one of those. A good show site, a caring show committee, and the overall emphasis on quality and hospitality over profit.

I’m not sure that the declining number of breeders is a bad thing. Overall, we are producing better dogs and the supply is keeping pace with demand. Today’s breeders are mostly more conscientious and certainly better educated than we were in the 1960s.

How do we encourage newcomers to join us and remain in the sport?

Richard Reynolds: I fully understand the “cold shoulder” that experienced breeders sometimes display. It’s the easy way out when asked the same questions over and over again. The same is true after investing time and money in newbies who drop out after just a little while. Still, unless we are more welcoming and inclusive of newcomers, we are all going to age out into oblivion. Sure, it’s a pain in the butt, but kindness and engagement with newcomers is very important.

Spend the time and teach what you know. Share your passion. Take a kid hunting. Invite new puppy owners to become involved. Let the public see your dogs at work and even encourage them to join in. Any one of these might be the magic wand that creates a lifelong devotee to purebred dogs.

How could AKC shows be improved?

Richard Reynolds: I think most of us agree that there are too many shows, and that proliferation works to the disadvantage of all of them. We could consider having several TYPES of shows. Matches, Open shows, breed level only, working title only, etc. This concept would certainly level the playing field and would help to eliminate the need for large venues that has driven many clubs from their home turf.

Every so often one finds a show held in the “home” area of a club that is a major civic event in and of itself. Lots of kids, lots of day trippers, lots of questions, and a great time for all. The Celtic Cluster in York, Pennsylvania, is one such event, and the Hickories Circuit in the Southern Tier of New York is another.

Where do you see yourself in the next decade or two?

Richard Reynolds: Please scatter my ashes in a fox den!

Finally, tell us a little about Richard outside of dogs… your occupation, your hobbies.

Richard Reynolds: I’m a semi-retired forensic consultant primarily dealing with fraud and white-collar crime for business and government. There’s also a burgeoning detection dog business that requires a certain amount of time and nurturing.

Alas, like many of my fellow judges, there is no life outside of dogs. My hobbies include attending (and learning to judge) hog bays (dogs), ratting at home and abroad (dogs), underground terrier work with… dogs. There’s some metal work and leather crafts (dogs) and, of course, writing articles like this (dogs again). Judging terrier trials and working terrier and hound events (yep, dogs).

As a public service announcement, though, I would like it known that I now own five tuxedos (to accommodate varying levels of weight), enjoy a wee dram of single malt scotch now and then, and am available for parties and other festivities almost any time.

The post Richard Reynolds – Breeder Interview by Allan Reznik appeared first on Showsight Magazine.

Voices of Experience: The Beagle

Breeders do not always agree on an individual dog or the quality of a certain bloodline or the value of a particular stud dog or brood bitch. Yet if one asks for the basic necessities in their breed, for example a good Beagle, likely there is agreement. I have information from two well respected sources I would like to share with those breeding, exhibiting and judging the Beagle. These are voices of experience.

First a bit of history, next voices from long-time breeders with decades of experience—one East Coast and one West Coast. Finally their assessment of today’s Beagle and breeder biographies.

Some History

The word Beagle appears to have developed from ancient Celtic, French and old English languages: beag, beigh and begle—all meaning small. Greek author, Xenophon, mentions small hounds hunting with man on foot in 450 B.C. In addition, Onomasticon, a Greek dictionary by Pollux, reports dogs alongside man in 1300 B.C. Further there is mention in Chaucer in the 14th Century of a small dog accompanying man hunting hare. During the Middle Ages, two types of hounds were prevalent in England—the Northern and the Southern Hound. They were rather large hounds yet it is suspected by some that the Northern and Southern Hound were bred with the Harrier resulting in the Beagle or that the Beagle resulted from miniaturizing the ancient Harrier.

Necessary to understanding any breed is some knowledge of its history. His size, his temperament—most of the breed’s features contribute to doing a job. Even though there may not be a certifiable date of a breed’s origin, in addition to the job or purpose, clues may be derived from examining the environment and climate where a breed was developed. The Beagle’s origin is uncertain. Is it down from the Harrier, the old Southern hound or the Foxhound or both? We are not sure but we know he is a scent hound developed in Britain where he hunted rabbit and hare primarily in packs with huntsmen following mainly on foot or horseback. The local area—its terrain, climate and size of prey—determined the type of Beagle that evolved. Larger prey in England demanded a larger dog. Yet, eventually in the US, as the population of larger game declined, the Beagle’s purpose became centered on rabbit.

From Survival to Sport

Out of necessity, very early man used the dog for survival to hunt his food; however, eventually that hunting activity became sport, and pastime, particularly with the aristocracy—no longer merely means for survival. Since the English landed-gentry engaged in blood sports as a social activity, they followed deer, fox, hare and badger with both large and small dogs on horseback and on foot. In England, the British aristocracy kept stockmen to rear and select Beagles for their packs. In time, an evenness and uniformity of pack became important and very competitive. Due to regional differences in terrain the dogs did not resemble each other much in general but they were very similar to each other in a given region. Many strains developed: all were used to locate, flush and drive hare to hunters.

What Are Pocket & Glove Beagles?

Popular pets with the royal family were pocket Beagles, those under 10 inches, sometimes even under 9 inches, bred for amusement and their melodious singing voices. These small Beagles could fit in a hunting coat pocket or a gauntlet. It is said the Beagle was considered little darlings of the aristocracy. However, in the latter 19 century, when more interest in fox hunting prevailed with the elite, interest in the Beagle declined. With fox hunting, rather than rabbit hunting, becoming the new fashion amongst the landed gentry in England, Ireland and Wales, the Beagle instead became the favorite of the farmers and small landowners in hunting rabbit to guns. This new ownership likely saved them from extinction.

Beagle Comes to America

It was 1873 when the British KC first recognized the Beagle; they were exhibited in packs at shows. Meanwhile here in America in 1876, General Richard Rowett of Illinois imported the first Beagles from several different kennels in England. Since so many lacked the head, body and legs of a good animal, the fanciers of the day took steps to ensure that the Beagle resemble a miniature Foxhound. A Beagle Club was formed in Philadelphia and this helped to improve type and uniformity. In 1887 a first Standard for the breed was written. In America, the National Beagle Club formed in 1890 to hold field trials for improving tracking qualities and type. After rejection by the AKC, the Beagle Club merged with the National Club to be known as the National Beagle Club. They purchased a 400-acre Institute Farm in Aldie, Virginia, which to this day is home to all the NBC activities.

One might wonder why we have both 13 and 15 inch Beagles in this country. The variety by size may be explained by the job he does. The 13″ hound is designed to get into the brush and flush out the rabbit; he needs a very protective coat. The 15″ variety chases cottontail rabbits. Cottontails run in a circle to waiting guns. Yet another theory is hunters did not feel it was fair for the under 13″ hounds to be competing/running with the under 15″.

Personality

The Beagle has always been a popular breed. He is amiable, friendly and alert. His disposition allows him to meet and face any situation. His handy size and good nature make him a great family pet. While not a guard dog in any sense, he will give voice freely at any intrusion or unusual event. Throughout the world the Beagle is known for his even, dependable temperament. Regardless of his size he is a solid, cheerful character and especially good with children. Beagles are found in nearly all countries of Europe and thanks to ground work of English and American bloodlines also seen now in some parts of Eastern Europe.

Basic Description

The Beagle is described in his standard as a small breed; however, “big for his inches” whether 13″ or 15″ variety, he is strong, sturdy and sound. His weight is approximately 20-25 pounds. Some of our very good Beagles that measure over 15 inches here in the US go to the UK for show. It is felt that no good Beagle is a bad color: structure is way more important. From their book, The International Encyclopedia of Dogs, Annie R. Clark and Andrew Brace describe the essentials of the breed: “The head should be fairly long, slightly domed at the occiput with moderately low set ears that can reach to the end of the nose. The stop should be moderately well defined, the muzzle square cut and the large, set apart eyes should be dark brown or hazel which help to create the unique soft, pleading expression that is so very much a part of the Beagle’s charm.” (Clark and Brace)

The neck should allow him to easily scent, shoulders clean and sloping, chest broad and deep, back short, muscular and strong, with close round paws, rear well bent stifles and muscular thighs, the tail set high but never curled over the back. Gait should be free, far reaching in front and drive in the rear. Coat must be short, dense and weather resistant.

From the Breeders

From Marcelo Chagas

The Beagle standard states that Beagles should be a Foxhound in miniature. It also states that both 15″ and 13″ dogs should be proportionally the same. Unfortunately, breeders and judges alike have lost sight of this aspect. Our 15s have become big and clunky, and the 13s are small and cobby. They often do not look alike, and the idea of “the smaller and shorter the better” is far from true.

Clean and elegant, but substantial and strong is what I believe a Beagle should be. Well laid back shoulders, with a moderately angled front, and a strong forechest. The body is thick but not tubular nor is it racy. It is slightly longer than tall, to allow for correct movement. The rear is moderately angled, neither straight in hips or stifle.

I’ve seen many dogs to be beautiful examples of our standard, but I’ve also seen some that are less than satisfactory. I suppose it is up to personal preference when it comes to the finer details, but structure is structure in the ring, judges seem to want a flashy, tricolor Beagle. A Beagle should always be two of those things; happy and with a pleasing expression. Remember, a Beagle is of any hound color, and the amount of white on it doesn’t constitute a nice dog. Movement should cover ground efficiently, but does not have to be fast, or fancy.

Today’s Beagles have their faults, as do they their strengths. Every generation will be that way. It is up to us as breeders to recognize both, improve with each generation, and preserve our beautiful breed.

From Lesley & David Hiltz

What do the breeders and judges get right today and what needs to be addressed?

This is how I would like to see people judge our breed. When the dog first comes into the ring I want to have the impression of a merry hound. When I move them around the ring I am not looking for the fastest dog but the dog that takes the least number of strides for the same distance. It should be an effortless gait—this is a dog that works all day in the field and has to have endurance. Endurance is not obtained by taking lots of quick steps.

After taking the dogs around to the table, stand back and look at the dog on the table both from the side and from the front. From the side you’re looking for overall balance. From the front you are looking for straight front legs, fill in of chest and good cat feet.

Now move up to the head where you need to see a gentle, pleading expression. You don’t want to see frown or wrinkle because that makes the dog look worried and this not a characteristic of the breed.

The eye color also adds to the expression. My theory is that if the eyes are the first thing you notice then they are too light (standard says brown or hazel). Also many Beagles are appearing in the ring with small, Terrier-like eyes, which is not typical. Another feature of the expression is the ear placement, which is moderately low, set in line with the corner of the eye. All Beagles can raise their ears a little if a noise is made so it’s preferable not to do that. Have the exhibitor show you the bite, the standard just says, “jaws level”, but as breeders we all want a scissor bite, but will tolerate a level one.

Neck into shoulders—this is currently one of the more challenging areas in the breed. Many Beagles are very upright in shoulder and short in upper arm, which gives a tendency to produce a shorter, higher stepping movement in many cases. You want a firm topline and a short compact body (but this is not a square dog) with the ribs forming approximately 75% of the length of the body and a short compact loin. We are seeing a lot of very short ribs and in some cases the sternum is not coming back beyond the elbows. Please feel to see how far back the sternum comes and also check the length of rib, as we are also finding short rib cages creeping into the breed.

You want a dog with a level topline, a tail set on high and carried gaily. You should never reward a Beagle that will not put its tail up at least some of the time it is in the ring. Perhaps it just needs more ring training and socialization and on another day it may be just fine but do not reward it on this day.

Movement is not mentioned in the Beagle standard, so let me express my opinion of what I think is ideal Beagle movement. Viewed from the side the back should be level and firm, there should be no indication of a roll. The stride is free, long reaching in front and straight without high action; hind legs showing drive. The dog should not wave paws when coming and going while from the rear hocks should be parallel and not move close behind.

Then we come to color. A very large proportion of the tricolored specials in the ring today are dyed. This is because exhibitors think you have to have a black saddle to win. It should not be so, as it is the quality of the dog, not the color that you are judging, after all the standard says, “any true Hound color”. If judges would reward faded tricolors, then perhaps this practice would cease.

Some enlightenment on Beagles! Thank you for your insight David, Lesley and Marcelo!

References

1. Gilbey, Sir Walter. Hounds of Old Days. Saiga Publications, 1979
2. Clark, Ann R. and Brace, Andrew. International Encyclopedia of Dogs, Howell, 1995
3. Popular Dogs, Visualization of Breed Standards. Publisher George Foley, 1962

The post Voices of Experience: The Beagle appeared first on Showsight Magazine.

A Life With Beagles

While I was writing this article, a dear friend of mine called to tell me she had just been diagnosed with cancer. Her attitude is great, she likes her doctors and is being proactive about her treatment plan and I hope to celebrate many holidays and achievements with her for a long time. I met her because of my Beagles.

My Beagles have introduced me to some of the best people on earth. Beagle people are much like their dogs: happy, sociable, and we like to hang out together—and eat! A Beagle’s sweet face, sense of humor and wagging tail are beacons to dog lovers. I try to participate in “Meet the Breeds” at shows and events and it was at one of these that I met my friend. She was planning ahead for a puppy; I was planning to breed. Unfortunately my girl only had one puppy who still lives here, but I connected my friend up with another breeder friend and soon a Beagle puppy joined their family. I am so happy right now that she has that Beagle girl as part of her comfort and care team. They give us their unconditional love, and have a great ability to console us while we stroke their soft, velvety ears. What more can you ask of a dog?

A Beagle first entered my life over 25 years ago. I brought home a poorly bred puppy who was still too young to leave her litter; and even at 6½ weeks old, she was smarter than I was. Oh, did I struggle with her; she lived up to all the bad things I’d heard about Beagles: stubborn, loud, mouthy, single minded; except for ‘stupid’—this was one of the smartest dogs I’ve ever met. Chelsea taught me that Beagles are crazy smart, tenacious, creative little dogs with a wicked sense of humor. That if I wanted her to play my games, I had to make it worth her while.

Back then, most dog training was correction based, “Do this or else.” I had a dog that said, ‘Do that and I’m outta here.’ When you are a novice dog owner, it’s hard to buck the system, hard to not follow the instructions given by the trainer you’ve paid money to. But it wasn’t working. I loved training my dog, even as frustrating as it was; and I was really interested in competing in obedience with her. The instructor rolled her eyes and told me to correct Chelsea harder.

About the same time, I was finishing my BA in psychology and one of my lab classes was to train a rat to press a bar using positive reinforcement. Hmm, slowly a light bulb went on—could I do this to train my Beagle? She liked food. And then Karen Pryor and Gary Wilkes came to town in the early 1990s and introduced clicker training. Much more fun for both Chelsea and I and we began to have success in the obedience ring.

Since then I’ve shared my life with 7 more Beagles and we train and compete in conformation, obedience, rally, tracking, agility and lure coursing. Some day we will add nose work, barn hunt and dock diving to that list. Beagles of all trades! I’ve had three generations of show line Beagles who have excelled in multiple activities.

To live successfully with a Beagle, you have to appreciate their independence and sense of humor. They are great problem solvers, often to the dismay of their owners. If you want to compete in dog sports with them, you need to be willing to let your ego go and know that they will embarrass you at some point, no matter how well trained. They will come up with unique ways of getting the job done (or not) Once when showing in Utility, I sent my girl out on the directed (glove) retrieve. She ran out to it, then saw a glove in the next ring and decided maybe she should bring that one back too. Luckily the Golden Retriever in that ring didn’t notice, or care, that suddenly a Beagle was in his ring, eyeing the glove. Rio came back when I called her—and the judge was laughing so hard he couldn’t write “NQ” on our score sheet. Beagles will stop in the middle of a beautiful agility run with their nose up, air scenting someone’s ringside lunch and leave to see if they will share.

Humorist Dave Barry described Beagles as “a nose with four feet”. People bring them home because of their cuteness, failing to realize (or remember) that they were originally bred to hunt rabbits. They don’t need humans to guide them, their instinct takes over and off they go. When the nose drops, the ears turn off. A Beagle will keep his nose down to figure out where the bunny went—when the bunny is sitting in plain sight, 20 feet in front of them! But the bunny got there in a circular fashion, not a straight line, and the Beagle must follow his nose to get there. That sense of smell is what drives a Beagle and why they are so food motivated and have a strong prey drive.

Since they don’t need humans to help them find bunnies, they are independent little dogs, perfectly happy to go out on a walk about to see what is out there. At the same time, they are pack hounds and really prefer to live with other dogs. Beagles are prone to separation anxiety when left alone too much; they need their pack, human, canine or feline. When you live with Beagles and sit down, you will be covered in Beagles (and when you get up you will be covered in Beagle hair. Yes, they shed; the correct coat is a double coat, much like a Labrador).

Following the rabbit is solving a puzzle, so Beagles are creative and figure out ways to get what they want. Most Beagle owners smile and say “yup” when they view the internet video of a Beagle pushing a chair over to the counter in order to get to food in a toaster oven. You can see the wheels turning. Great for some things, not so great when you are trying to puppy proof your house. They are busy little dogs, again bred to run, chase and sniff for lengths of time. Many do not settle down until they are two or three, or older. They are inquisitive and like to poke their noses into things; stand on their hind legs and look over things; sit on tall things and survey the world. There is a reason Snoopy hangs out on top of his dog house!

Keeping their brains occupied is key to living with them. Look at obedience, rally and agility as a puzzle to be solved. My best working Beagles have had high prey drive and were the smartest. When proofing them—introducing distractions—during training, they work harder and harder to be right to earn that cookie. They look at the pressure put on them by an instructor, or a judge in the ring, as a challenge to ignore. Much different than many herding breeds, who are very successful in the obedience ring, but more susceptible to the ‘pressure’. Beagles are good ‘multi-taskers’—they are willing and able to train and compete successfully in many different dog sports. Some come very naturally to them—tracking and nose work, barn hunt; they are excellent agility dogs, once they discover that running a course is just as much fun as sniffing; most Beagles love lure coursing, the chance to chase moving prey and while most are very disappointed to catch up with the lure and discover it’s just a plastic bag (“WHAT?? Where did the bunny go?”) they are more than willing to try it again. Optimists they are. Obedience and rally can be more difficult, there is more precision required, more self control (stays), less action, especially in Novice obedience. Although most Beagles are not that fond of water, quite a few are having fun in dock diving.

Like many hunting breeds, there are differences between show and field lines. I’ve lived with and trained both. The field dogs generally are more independent, have more prey drive, louder howls! and are more likely to have separation anxiety. The show dogs are in my experience, more even tempered and willing to work with me. My first Beagle came from field lines—he, my first show line girl and my current youngest (show lines) have had the most brain power. If you want to do dog sports with your Beagle, find a breeder who understands the demands put on the dog; look for a sound dog. If a dog can’t cut it in the show ring due to structure, you probably don’t want it for an agility dog.

Those of us who love our Beagles tend to stick with them and resist the temptation to get an ‘easier’ breed, one that takes less effort to succeed with. Like our hounds, we are tenacious! We love their puppy-ness and their soft brown eyes. Here are some of the things that Beagle owners have learned from their dogs:

•  “The most important things my Beagles have taught me are patience and joy in the moment. My Beagles have taken me to the moon and the stars and back again, opening worlds of compassion, friendship and challenge that I would never have experienced without them.”
• “My Beagles have taught me not to take myself so seriously. Life is short, make sure to laugh and make others laugh.”
• Make the most of what you have. Life may throw you a curveball—hit it out of the park!”
• Never trust a dog to watch your food.
• Might does not make right. You’ll catch more Beagles with treats!
• Sit = please.
• Good things come to those who wait.
• Don’t forget to play—and to take a nap.
• Shake off the little things.
• Stick with your pack.
• And a few wise people who must have had a Beagle in their lives:
• “A dog has four feet, but he can’t walk four different paths.”—Unknown
• “When the old dog barks, it is time to watch.”—Unknown

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Judging the Beagle

The General Appearance portion of the AKC Standard gives great insight into the essence of the Beagle. A miniature Foxhound, solid and big for his inches, with the wear-and-tear look of the hound that can last in the chase and follow his quarry to the death. One side note, it is referring to an English Foxhound and the quarry is rabbit and/or hare.

Beagles are a moderate breed. If your eye is drawn to some exaggerated portion of the dog, it is not correct. Please remember the drag of this breed is long and low. We have issues with dwarfism in this breed, and you will see some of those characteristics in the show ring today. A 15″ body on 13″ legs does not make a 13″ Beagle. Balance is key!

The only disqualification in this breed is any hound measuring over 15″ in height. As a judge you should never utter the words, “I did not use your dog because I felt it was too big.” When in doubt, measure!

The standard refers to a Beagle who is solid and big for his inches. There can be quite a size range within each variety. The standard refers to a beagle that is solid and big for his inches. 13½” Beagles may appear too small next to a Beagle measuring 15″. We have a lot of high quality, 13½” Beagles who get lost in the mix because. Judges don’t look at them as individuals but instead compare them to the larger exhibits in the ring. Remember, the standard says solid and big for his inches not solid and big. Please look at every Beagle as an individual when assessing size, bone and balance.

Often referred to as the “Merry Little Beagle” it goes without saying you want to see them moving around the ring in a happy manner. Aggressive or shy behavior should not be tolerated.

When viewing the Beagle in profile on the table, first of all, make sure the front end of the Beagle matches the rear not only in angulation but also in mass. We are seeing too many Beagles who are heavier in their front ends than in their rears. The rears should have good depth of thigh and second thigh. They should not look like Bulldogs. The topline and underline should mirror each other.

Although the standard calls for a slight rise over the loin, the top line should be level. The rise comes from the muscling around the loin and not the spine. You want to feel good muscling around the loin. Short rib cages with long loins are a huge problem in this breed. Due to the short rib cages, we are seeing too much tuck up. Beagles hunting in thick brush need to have the protection of long rib cages with good spring of rib for lungs and short loins for agility.

The first thing to catch my eye from the front is expression. They should have a soft, pleading, hound expression. When you look at a Beagle’s face, you should want to hug it! The Beagle is not a head breed, but the head is a hallmark of the breed. Most of the expression comes from the eyes. They should be large, set well apart, with a soft and hound like expression, gentle and pleading, brown or hazel in color. You want a full eye but certainly not round or almond. We are seeing a lot of round eyes, small pig eyes and light colored eyes. This destroys the soft, hound like expression that is so important to our breed.

The skull from the occiput to the stop should equal the length of the muzzle. The skull should be slightly domed at the occiput with the cranium broad and full. In other words, you do not want to see too much dome with an exaggerated stop or a flat skull, and no wrinkles! You want plenty of back skull without it being coarse, and it should not be too narrow. The muzzle should be straight and square cut with a moderately defined stop. We do not want to see heavy brows, snipey muzzles or large flews. Since this is a scenting breed, it goes without saying they should have a nose with large, open nostrils. There is no mention of the bite in the standard, however, it does refer to level jaws, which will produce a scissor (preferred) to level bite.

In profile you want to see the skull and muzzle parallel to each other. There are quite a few down faced Beagles. This throws off the expression. The ear set should be in line with the corner of the eye, long enough to almost reach the end of the muzzle, fine in texture, rounded at the tip and lying close to the head. When checking for ear set, always look at them when they are relaxed. We do not want to see small, high set ears.

The Beagle’s neck should be of medium length. A lovely crest of neck flowing smoothly into well-Iayed back shoulders extending into a level topline ending at the base of the tail is gorgeous! The front assembly should have well-Iayed back shoulders plus the return of upper arm to match. There should be some prosternum.

The front legs should be set back under the Beagle in a direct line with the well- Iayed back shoulders. Another huge issue in this breed are fronts that are set too far forward. Also, the distance from the top of the withers to the elbow should match the distance from the elbow to the ground. The chest should come to the elbow. We are seeing way too many Beagles with chests reaching far below the elbow giving the appearance of short legs.

The legs should be straight with short pasterns and plenty of bone. Beagles with slightly curved front legs are showing up in the ring. Check the legs from the front as well as the side. You never want to see knuckling. Sometimes dogs on the table will knuckle over. If you see this, look at them on the ground to confirm or deny your observations on the table. Beagles should be examined on the table and judged on the ground!

The feet should be round and firm with full, hard pads. No flat feet, splayed feet or hare feet. Feet are very important to a hound that has to run all day.

The standard calls for a short back. If you have an animal with a short back and short loin, it can only be assumed that you have a Beagle that is square. I can forgive a little length as long as it is accompanied by two things: the extra length must be seen in the ribs and not the loin, plus the dog has to be able to move. If a Beagle is a little off square and still minces around the ring, I cannot forgive the length. I am talking about a little length and not a freight train!

The Beagle’s coat should be a close, hard, hound coat of medium length. With today’s improved shampoos you will most likely never see a hard coat. There should be a sufficient amount of coat to cover the body and tail for protection from harsh brush and brambles. When you run your hands over a Beagle, the coat should not feel thin. Having personally witnessed Beagles coming in from the field with blood flying from their tails and scrapes on their bodies, I now realize the importance of proper coats. One of the things that offends me as a Beagle breeder and judge is the practice of what I call poofing out the tails. Beagles are not Poodles! The opening up of that tail coat defeats the exact purpose for which it is intended. An open coat does not protect. My last comment about coat is to remind judges to check the topline with their hands. Many Beagles carry extra coat over their shoulders and in front of the tail area. Often times the Beagle will have a level topline but due to excess coat it will appear to be the opposite.

Strong, well-muscled hips and thighs are very important in this breed. I look for good turn of stifle flowing down to short rear pasterns. Once again we want to see round, tight feet. Always check for muscle tone and overall condition. This is a working hound and should be fit.

The tail should be set moderately high. It has a slight curve and should not be bent over the back. The tail (not including brush) should come to just above the level of the head. You will see gay tails and long tails. There should be a sufficient amount of brush to protect the tail. That does not mean it has to look like a Labrador tail. The judge should gently pull the coat away from the back of the tail to confirm there is enough brush to protect the tail.

Beagles can be any true hound color. In 30 years, the only Beagles I have seen with inappropriate color are those who have been dyed. Different markings over the back can be deceiving.

Although our standard does not mention movement, you will note that the most heavily emphasized portions directly correlate to a well-moving hound that can work all day. The best description of Beagle movement comes from longtime breeder, Mandy Bobbitt. Mandy actively hunts and shows. Mandy describes excellent Beagle movement as being long, low and efficient. Watch for good reach and drive with no interference. Beagles should not be racing around the ring.

Your first cut should be based on type. From that cut focus on soundness and movement. Balance coupled with form and function will be your guide to good Beagle judging. May your ring be filled with Merry Little Beagles exceeding in breed type, soundness and movement!

The post Judging the Beagle appeared first on Showsight Magazine.

Breeder Interview:  By Allan Reznik

Where did you grow up?

Julie Lux: Kansas City, Missouri.

Do you come from a doggie family? If not, how did your interest in breeding and showing purebred dogs begin?

Julie Lux: My parents were not doggie at all. I did not have a dog growing up. I joke that my mother barely allowed my father and me in the house for fear of getting it dirty, so no dogs. Ironically, when Ron and I got our first house and then two black Labradors, my mother loved them and called them her “granddogs.”

The closest I had to a dog as a kid was my Aunt Julia’s Boston Terrier, Junior. He was the world’s most patient dog and I loved him. I still have a framed picture of Junior on my dresser.

Ron and I do not have children and we were looking for something we could do with our dogs. We had a pet Dalmatian that we took to Obedience class. A number of people in our class also competed, so we went to the dog shows to watch them. While at shows, we wandered over to the Dal ring, we met breeders, one thing led to another, and we got Gucci, CH Deluxe High Fashion Dots. We finished Gucci in three months with three majors, and we were hooked!

Beagles came along when I decided I wanted to judge someday and knew I didn’t want to breed Dals because of the big litters—Gucci was one of ten. I gave Ron two Breed Standards, for the Beagle and the Boston. Since he was already showing American Foxhounds by then, when he read “miniature Foxhound” he held up the Beagle Standard and said, “Let’s get these!” Words he has lived to regret. (Not really.)

Who were your mentors in the sport? Please comment on their influence.

Julie Lux: I have been very fortunate to have benefited from the expertise of many people. Kay Phillips and the Millers were wonderful mentors in American Foxhounds. Peggy and John Shaw in Beagles were kind enough to share their significant knowledge, especially when we started breeding. A number of judges were also very generous with their guidance and helped me improve my breeding program over the years.

When it comes to showing Beagles, I owe a big thanks to Phyllis Wright and her special style of tough love. Phyllis always tells it like it is and I’ve learned so much from her—and I’m still learning. I’d say I still learn something at each dog show, and I am very grateful to everyone who is kind enough to take the time to stop and help me continue to grow and improve. I hope I’ve been helpful to a few people along the way, too.

The Deluxe Beagles are widely known, highly successful and well respected. What breeding philosophies do you adhere to?

Julie Lux: Thank you for those kind comments. While pedigrees are important and I do review and study them, I tend to breed more with my eyes. What does this dog have that I want to incorporate into my breeding program? How do this bitch and this dog complement one another? I don’t believe you can “fix” a problem with breeding, but you can strive to preserve and enhance positive qualities. I also believe in health testing as prescribed by the National Beagle Club.

How many dogs do you typically house? Tell us about your current facilities and how the dogs are maintained.

Julie Lux: I will answer that question with my husband’s stock answer: “Too many!” We have been very fortunate that most of our Beagles have been very long-lived, so there are always a few geriatrics around. Right now, Basil, GCHS Vinla’s Right Recipe For Deluxe, is the senior dog at 15-plus years of age, and the Drew/Tami (GCHG Deluxe Return On Investment x CH Swan Lake Woodstone Special Time) puppies are the “babies” that just turned two in December.

We have a big room off our kitchen where everyone has a crate to sleep and eat in, except for Basil and Tami who are in the TV room. Then there is the bed dog of the day—and let me tell you, they know when it’s their turn! We have two areas for running and playing, a smaller yard that is fully fenced with a 6-foot privacy fence, and a huge backyard that we just expanded and replaced with new 6-foot black chain link. We live on 10 acres, which is especially good around feeding time when the decibel level at my house increases significantly. Fortunately, it only lasts until everyone has their food dish.

Please comment positively on the present condition of your breed, and what trends might bear watching.

Julie Lux: I am encouraged by the overall quality of Beagles I’ve seen in recent years. Because it was something I had to work to improve in my own program, I prize a long length of rib cage and a short loin. The “General Appearance” section of the Beagle Standard reads, “A miniature Foxhound, solid and big for his inches, with the wear-and-tear look of the hound that can last in the chase and follow his quarry to the death.” Anyone who has watched me judge can see this is important to me.

The sport has changed greatly since you first began. What are your thoughts on the current state of the fancy, and the declining number of breeders? How do we encourage newcomers to join us and remain in the sport?

Julie Lux: I believe life tends to be cyclical and there will always be people who value the purpose-bred dog. As clubs that put on shows, whether all-breed or breed-specific, we need to continue to support the Bred-by-Exhibitor classes. I’m not sure there is a more satisfying accomplishment in dogs than finishing one you’ve bred, and doing it from the Bred-by class. I’m very happy that AKC recognizes this achievement with a medallion. As breeders, it is very satisfying to mentor a person you help to start out in a breed—often, with one of your own puppies—and see them realize success. While not all mentoring situations turn out well, I think most people are grateful for the guidance from experienced breeders who share their knowledge. I know I am.

I also hope that the new popular sports like Barn Hunt and Scent Work will result in new people getting into showing, and maybe even breeding. Think of all the people who started by going to an Obedience Trial, and eventually ended up in the Conformation ring, and ultimately, the whelping box. It is our responsibility as the “veterans” of the sport to be welcoming and encouraging to these new people.

Where do you see your breeding program in the next decade or two?

Julie Lux: I’ll be grateful to still be doing this for “the next decade or two!” I have an idea for one more breeding. It remains to be seen if I have the energy to do it!

Finally, tell us a little about Julie outside of dogs… your occupation, your hobbies.

As I always say, I work to support my habit, which, of course, is dogs. However, I genuinely enjoy my work in pharmaceutical public relations. It gives me the opportunity to use my mind, be creative, and work with a wonderful group of people at Jeff Winton Associates. As with the dogs, I continue to learn new things every day. I hosted a morning talk show in Kansas City “back in the day,” and working in pharmaceutical PR continues to give me the opportunity to meet interesting people, which I love.

Does shopping count as a hobby? (Big Smile.) I love to read and, like finding an outstanding new dog when judging, finding a fabulous new book continues to be exciting. Ron and I also enjoy live theater productions and college basketball. Rock Chalk Jayhawks!

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Let’s Talk Beagles! – This and That

When asked to do an article on Beagles, there were many topics that were of interest to the Beagle fancy:

• A Gentle & Pleading Expression—What makes a beautiful headpiece?
• Two Varieties—The difference in sizes; should there even be unrecognizable difference in the sizes?
• Any Hound Color—What about the colors of Beagles; how many colors do they come in?
• Proper Movement in Beagles—Description and Pictures.

Let’s start with Color

When one in the US thinks of a Beagle, they usually visualize the most familiar color, the classic tri-color; black, tan, and white. Actually, Beagles come in a variety of colors. When the writers of the Beagle Standard said, “any hound color,” basically, at that point in time, they were saying any foxhound-type color. The AKC English Foxhound Breed Standard reads: “Hound colors are black, tan, and white, or any combination of these three, also the various ‘pies’ compounded of white and the color of the hare and badger, or yellow, or tan.”

These color combinations are typically what are seen in Beagles. Tri-colors include black/tan/ white, blue/tan/white, liver (chocolate)/tan/white, and lilac/tan/white. They may have the classic saddle pattern, faded tri, or open-marked. All are EQUALLY correct.
Bi-colors include red/white, tan/white, lemon/white, and fawn/white. All are EQUALLY correct. Pieds have not often been seen in the US, but with the importation of this color in recent years, more are being seen in the ring. To the untrained observer, pieds may look like a faded open-marked tri-color. One distinguishing feature is the nose coloration. Pieds have a “dudley” nose or a nose with a little bit of pinkish tint to the center of it. Genetically, they are different than tri- and bi-colors. This is also an EQUALLY correct color.
Two color patterns that have never been genetically shown to occur in Beagles are brindle and merle. These color patterns are not acceptable.

PLEASE REMEMBER: JUDGE THE STRUCTURE NOT THE COLOR!

Beagles are working hounds, typically with heads held lower and with ears that act to gather the scent.

Two Varieties: Is it a 13 or 15?

A good 13-inch should be just a smaller version of a 15-inch. Being a 13-inch does not mean looking toy-ish, spindly or dwarf-ish. Many times, a Beagle lacking in bone, substance, and head is said to be “okay for a 13-inch.” This is always incorrect. The only way a 13-inch Beagle should be “less than” a 15-inch is height at the shoulder—balance is always key. A 15-inch is any Beagle that measures over 13 inches at the withers. A small, balanced 15-inch (say 13-1/2 inches at the withers) is just as correct as a 15-inch that is right at the 15-inch mark. Look at the good examples below. Can you tell which ones are 13s and which ones are 15s? The answers will appear at end of this article.

A Gentle, Pleading Expression

And one that melts your heart! This is a description of the Beagle head. Proper structure creates
this expression.

The correct headpiece of the Beagle is a thing of beauty. It is created by a correct eye shape and size, combined with a generally darker eye color, with the ears framing the head properly and set level with the outer corner of the eye. The ears should, when drawn out, reach nearly, if not quite, to the end of the nose. They should be rounded at the tip and with the forward edges slightly inward-turning to the cheeks and correct head planes. Beagles are working hounds, typically with heads held lower and with ears that act to gather the scent.

In last few years, lower set, heavy, almost Basset-looking type ears are being seen in the ring. These are incorrect.

Short Sternums

One hot topic that is being discussed by many Beagle breeders is the short sternums and short rib cages that are being seen in the ring. Here is an illustration of the bone structure of the Beagle. Note where the sternum ends and notice the length of rib cage compared to the loin. A two-thirds ribcage to one-third loin ratio is correct.

A running hound needs a nice, long rib cage to provide protection for the internal organs and room for heart and lung capacity. Heart and lung capacity is an important endurance factor. The proper rib cage structure’s form follows its function. Often, with the short sternum and/or short rib cage, the tuck up will be extreme. This can be felt on exam, and the sternum ends just barely past the front legs.

Beagle Movement

Movement is not mentioned in the Standard. Basic assumptions are made based on the description of the running gear, shoulder, and rear construction. A Beagle works in the field at a walk, trot, and gallop. Efficiency in movement is important. Movement should appear effortless, efficient, and ground-covering. Front and rear legs are not thrown in or out. In trotting, the forequarters and hindquarters are coordinated and the back should remain level, firm, and relatively motionless.

The head carriage should be between slightly above the horizontal to approximately 35 degrees. As the front foot is brought forward, there should be minimum lift. The toes should appear to almost skim the ground as they are coming forward. The hind feet should fall into the footsteps of the front feet.

Overall, the Beagle is a working hound. Moderate is one word used often to describe a Beagle. Another “M” word for a Beagle is Merry. A Beagle should be happy and curious, not shy or spooky. Many aspects of the Beagle could be discussed more in-depth. Watch for more articles, especially online.

Answer: All examples are 13-inch Beagles with the exception of numbers 4 and 6.

2023 NATIONAL SPECIALTY

Our National Specialty always offers the best opportunity to learn about our merry little hounds! This year’s National will be held October 23-29, 2023 in Mesquite, Texas.

Sweepstakes and Conformation: October 23–26 at Hampton Inn & Suites and Convention Center

Scent Work: October 24 at Mesquite Convention Center/Hampton Inn & Suites

Obedience: October 25 at Hampton Inn & Suites

Rally: October 26 at Hampton Inn & Suites

Hunting Performance Test: October 26–27

Agility: October 27–29 – Supported Entry in conjunction with Bell County Kennel Club All-Breed Shows

Judges: Conformation Judge: Nanette Prideaux;
Sweeps Judge: Beverly Davies-Fraser;
Junior Showmanship/4-6 Month Puppy/PeeWee Competition: Linda Clark;
Performance Event Judges: TBD

Judges Education Seminar: October 24 held in conjunction with the National Specialty. Seminar & Hands-On, Tuesday afternoon. Presenter: Ruth Darlene Stewart; Ringside Mentoring, Wednesday & Thursday, October 25 & 26, 2023.

Show Chair: Ann Wolf

Unable to attend the Beagle National but want to learn more about our Merry Hound?

The NBC educational PowerPoint presentation that is used for Judges Education, and the Visualization that was created several years ago by the Judges Education committee, are available to anyone, at any time at https://www.nationalbeagleclub.org/ on the NBC education page!

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