Judging the American English Coonhound

Having been a fancier of these ticked up hounds for a number of years, I became passionate about the breed after I heard my first English Coonhound track and tree a raccoon during training season in fall of 1990. Our party went on quite a bit of a walking hike after the hounds trailed out of hearing across the hills and hollows of eastern Kentucky. To witness hounds doing what they were bred to do and doing it out of instinct was so thrilling! There is nothing sweeter than hearing a hound on chase giving voice and then hearing that voice change over to a tree bark announcing “I’ve got the quarry treed…come to me.” And as this was just training season, we found the coon with our lights, then rewarded the hounds with pats and praise and “ok..leave it…let’s go.” Wow…it was an experience I enjoyed, and from that time forward, I found myself hooked on these ticked up hounds! That was in 1990, and by 1992 I was dabbling with raising, showing, and hunting them. Hello, my name is Penny Jessup, and today I have a small hobby kennel in the rolling hills of north central North Carolina, along with my husband and 2 children.

My husband participates in competition coon hunts, and I like to show. We are very active with our hounds, both in the woods and in the shows, and we strive to raise quality hounds that can be dual-purpose show and hunt as well as loyal companions. While I am not presently an AKC licensed conformation judge, I am, however, an AKC and UKC licensed Coonhound bench show judge and have been for at least 15 years. I have participated in the Coonhound program for over 20 years, and during that time, I have had an English female win the 2012 AKC World Championship Bench Show and additionally a second English Coonhound female win the 2013 UKC World Championship Bench Show. My endeavors with this breed have brought me heartache and also incredible joy, and while I have a deep appreciation for all the Coonhound breeds, the English hounds do hold a special place in my heart. One thing lots of folks ask is, “Why is this breed called the AMERICAN ENGLISH Coonhound?” That’s a fair question. For all the years until AKC formally recognized this breed, it was only known as the “English Coonhound,” so my interest was piqued as well.

As it was explained to me, it was to avoid any confusion with anyone thinking this was a Coonhound breed developed in England and brought there. This is a purely American breed, developed primarily in the southeastern United States to run and tree game. So while the name “AMERICAN English Coonhound” seems a misnomer in name, it actually recognizes the breed accurately, and I can accept that and appreciate that. I feel there would not be much I can tell any current AKC conformation judge reading this article about movement and how these hounds should place their feet for efficient and effortless movement. My goal, therefore, is to discuss finer points of the breed in hopes you will better understand the breed when you next judge them in your rings.

One thing to note: of the 6 Coonhound breeds presently recognized by AKC, all of them are unique both in their ancestry and their nature and characteristics. While all but the Plott have a shared heritage leading all the way back to the foxhound, the English Coonhound is probably the most diverse of all the Coonhound breeds. You will find less consistency from dog to dog. One hound may be redtick in color and have a square blocky head and be heavy boned, and the next may be lighter boned, short-eared, and bluetick in color. Learning to appreciate these ticked-up hounds for their unique attributes is what we strive for… Let’s just start at the head and work our way through the dog… As with most hounds, we want a nice broad head with a kind hound expression and a square muzzle. The planes of the skull and the muzzle should be parallel. Preference to the darker eye, black nose, and preference to a nice low ear set. Looking at the hound straight on, ideally, the ears should set approximately at a level with the corner of the eye. Historically, I will tell you that there are several lines of English Coonhounds who display shorter ears and higher ear sets. That is not preferred, but it is present in the breed.

In addition, while we do not ever expect an English Coonhound to display the long ear present in a bloodhound or even the Black and Tan Coonhound, I do not believe any English Coonhound should be disqualified nor heavily faulted for an ear length that extends slightly past the end of the nose. This ear is desirable in the breed. The neck and topline are significant in this breed. There should be a graceful neck rising from a powerful body tapering upward to the skull. To form a nice smooth topline, we always want our English Coonhounds to be slightly higher at the withers than at the hips. And by saying slightly higher…that’s exactly correct; this should not be exaggerated. Imagine a fine bead of water running down from the back of the skull, down the neck, across the withers, then slowing down as that bead reaches the back and across the loin. The neck should blend smoothly into the back. The ribs of a mature English Coonhound are well sprung, and when seen from above, show a definite width tapering to a muscular loin, almost like the waist on a person.

The tail set lies immediately at the end of the croup and not too low. The tail should be carried gaily and not hooked. No excessive brush on the tail is present. From a side profile, a nice topline is complemented well by a smooth underline that tucks up gradually behind floating ribs. This tuck-up should never be exaggerated as with a whippet. The rib cage extends down to the elbow, showing adequate lung space. It is essential that this breed display a good deal of lung space and a racy, powerful body, as it is important for a hound to be able to give chase and hunt all night if that is the desire of the owner. Although many hounds are not asked to do this…they should be built to do so. This type of body will allow the English Coonhound to achieve the effortless trot characteristic of the breed.

Both front and rear angulation is very important to this breed to help them achieve the best drive and reach when in motion. A well-laid-back front shoulder and a nice, well-bent stifle are highly desirable. But, overall balance front and rear will usually result in a well-moving English hound. Historically, legs and feet are crucial features of a sound English Coonhound. When viewed from the front and from the rear, we want to see straight legs leading to a well-rounded, catlike foot showing a strong arch over the toes. Splay feet are not desirable and would result in a Coonhound that will break down after a few short years of hunting in the field. As judges evaluate these hounds and lay hands on them, they will be able to appreciate the athlete the English Coonhound is. But, as you step back and take a final look at your ring of American English Coonhounds, you will likely see hounds of many different color patterns. From my experience, the “redtick” or the red and white ticked is the most common English Coonhound color. But, as mentioned earlier… these hounds represent the most diverse of all the Coonhound breeds, and that is easily seen with the color. You will also see blue and white ticked (almost like the Bluetick Coonhound), tri-color with ticking, along with red and white and blue and white.

All of these must include at least 10% ticking across the body, or it is a disqualification. This variety of colors can easily be understood if you will recall that until the 1940s, the Bluetick and the Treeing Walker Coonhound were once registered altogether as English Coonhounds, that is…until their fanciers petitioned to have them recognized as their own individual breeds. And so the genetic makeup is very diverse, and even a mating of two red and white ticked parents today can result in any of the above-mentioned colors. But, let me make this very clear…there is not any one preference for any particular color. An American English Coonhound of any color should be judged equally based on their physical attributes without regard to color. In summary, please know that the American English Coonhound is a canine athlete with a powerful, racy body that needs to be able to go to the woods at night and perform for its owner, and then potentially sleep at the owners’ feet at night! This hound is confident and happy…a family dog! Take time to appreciate its diversity and its unique characteristics!

The post Judging the American English Coonhound appeared first on Showsight Magazine.

Interview with Franklin Williams and Tracy Kaecker, Breeders of River Bottom American English Coonhounds

Where do we live? How many years in dogs? How many years as breeders?

We live in Central Illinois. We have both had dogs our whole lives, but Tracy started exhibiting in 1994. Tracy has bred dogs for 25 years, starting with German Shepherd Dogs. Frank has bred dogs for over 40 years, having bred field Labradors Retrievers, English Setters, and Bluetick Coonhounds. Together, Frank and Tracy raise American English Coonhounds under the River Bottom kennel name, and longhaired Dutch Shepherds under the kennel name Traka.

What is our kennel name? How many dogs do we currently keep?

Our kennel name for the coonhounds is River Bottom. We currently have 11 dogs, plus a brand-new litter of nine American English Coonhounds.

Which show dogs from the past have been our noteworthy winners?

That would be our foundation dog, GCH River Bottom Tri Dunkin Me (Dunkin). He was our first nationally ranked dog for four years running, a Westminster Kennel Club Breed winner, and an AKC National Championship Breed winner.

Which have been our most influential sires and dames?

Again, that would be our foundation sire, GCH River Bottom Tri Dunkin Me. The first litter he sired produced BIS RBIS GCHB CCH River Bottom Divine Intervention BCAT SCE SIN SEN TKN CGC ATT (call name Diva). She is currently the top-winning American English Coonhound in AKC history and the only NOHS Platinum level American English Coonhound.

Can we talk a bit about our facilities? Where are our puppies whelped?

We live on 2-1/2 acres in a semi-rural area, but we also own a little over 105 acres of farm ground. A few of our hunting dogs live in kennels, but most of our dogs are house dogs.

Pups are whelped in our family room. All pups, whether they will be a hunting dog, family companion, or both, are raised in the house until they are at least six months old. This introduces them to the discipline needed to train confident and well-rounded dogs. They are exposed to all the normal household sounds like TVs, dishwashers, and vacuum cleaners as well as outside lawnmowers, weed eaters, vehicles, etc.

What is our process for selecting Show puppies? Performance puppies?

All of our pups are handled extensively from the moment they’re born. When they start walking, we watch their movement to see how well they use themselves. We also observe their overall demeanor. Sometimes it may not be the most conformationally correct dog that we keep. The pup(s) we choose is/are based on their overall temperament, disposition, and how they have bonded to us. They can be the prettiest pup in the world, but if they don’t have the attitude (or if our personalities clash) it is all for naught.

For performance, we want a dog that is biddable yet independent, and a “thinker.” We observe the pups closely, especially when first put into a new area. We will see who puts their noses to the ground to explore the new environment, who uses their voice when they have found something that really peaked their interest, and who isn’t afraid to wander away from the rest to explore. This is not a foolproof method, but it does show the potential for how outgoing they will be and how much natural instinct they have to hunt. Keep in mind, the American English Coonhound is bred to go out on its own and hunt with no direction from its owner. Our primary focus is the hunting dog. A dog that is afraid or is unwilling to leave your side in the timber will never succeed as a hunting dog.

Do we compete in companion events? Performance events?

Frank and Tracy both show dogs in Conformation. Frank enjoys pleasure hunting as well as participating in competition Nite Hunts. Tracy competes with the hounds in Scent Work Trials, Water Races, and Field Trials. She has been training two of our other nationally ranked coonhounds in K9 Search and Rescue.

Is “performance” part of our decision-making when it comes to breeding?

Absolutely! Our motto has always been: “A working dog doesn’t have to be pretty, but a pretty dog darn sure better be able to work.”

This holds particularly true in a coonhound breed. Their value is in their hunting ability.

The written Breed Standard should reflect a dog that can perform the work it was originally bred to do. The show records tell the story of how closely they conform to the written Standard, but the sound of their voices ringing through the timber in pursuit of their quarry is where the real-world standard is found. For this reason, we try to incorporate well-conformed, proven hunting dogs into our breeding program.

How would we define “conditioning” as it relates to our breed?

They should be well-muscled with great endurance. In a hunt, a coonhound can easily travel 12-15 miles or more through varying terrain. Once they find and “tree”’ their quarry, they may spend hours on the tree until the handlers can arrive. Their physical structure has to hold up to that style of hunting. We strive to ensure that our dogs are fit, both physically and mentally, not only for show purposes but also to succeed at what the breed was established to do… track and tree game.

Are there any health-related concerns in our breed? Any special nutritional needs?

The major health concern typical of many large-breed dogs is hip and elbow dysplasia. There are some incidences of thyroid issues, but they are few and far between. As for nutritional needs, a healthy American English Coonhound is an easy keeper. A good quality kibble is all that’s needed to maintain health and optimal body condition.

Do we think our breed is supported by a sufficient number of preservation breeders?

In AKC, there are very few people breeding and promoting the American English Coonhound. However, the breed is well known and well represented in other registries. In those registries, they are bred almost exclusively for hunting—and that is not a bad thing. It keeps them true to the breed’s original purpose.

Is our breed well-suited to be a family dog? Who are the best candidates to own our breed?

Like most hunting or working dogs, they do need their share of physical and mental exercise. If this is provided they make outstanding family companions. The best family for this breed is one that is willing to give the dog an outlet for its drive and hunting instinct. This does not mean they have to be turned loose in the timber and hunted all night if they don’t have the means or ability. These dogs excel at Tracking or Scent Work, as this allows them to use their instinctual abilities coupled with their drive to find the object of the “‘hunt.” The prospective owner needs to be someone who will give them mentally stimulating work in addition to the physical exercise of a good run.

What is the biggest misconception about our breed? What is our breed’s best-kept secret?

The biggest misconception is that they are chronic barkers and difficult to train. Yes, they do have a very loud voice by design. They will bark from sheer boredom, so keeping them mentally and physically challenged will alleviate that. Like any other breed, they will not bark needlessly or incessantly if you don’t allow it.

While they are not stellar Obedience contenders due to their independent nature, they can be taught basic manners with consistent training. The best-kept secret is they are amazing family companions. They are easy to housetrain, get along well with other dogs, and they tend to love children. The breed was designed to hunt with other hounds in a pack. With a family, they become a member of your “pack.” As fierce and tenacious as they are in the timber, they are equally affectionate, loving, and loyal to their human family. They are also very welcoming to others, both young and old.

If we could share a comment or two with judges of our breed, what would we like to say?

This is a moderate breed: moderate angulation, moderate reach and drive, and moderate speed when gaiting. A post-legged dog will not hold up running timber all night long, so there needs to be some angulation; it must be matched front and rear and never over-done. And they should never be gaited at breakneck speeds at the end of the lead like you see in some other breeds.

The American English coonhound is the only coonhound Breed Standard which states the dogs should be friendly and outgoing with people and other dogs. If the dog is shy or fearful, it should be heavily penalized regardless of how good its movement or conformation is. Again, it has to function as a hunting dog. Although they work independently, they still have to be handled by both the owner and, in some cases, by strangers, depending on the circumstances. They should not be overly aggressive, but a fearful dog will not do well when their quarry tries to fight back.

There have been many times when we have seen judges reward dogs in the show ring that have cowered or shrunk away from the judge when being examined. Normal apprehension in a young puppy is okay, but they should quickly rebound. Likewise, any aggression towards another dog should be severely penalized.

Do we have any words of wisdom to pass along to newer breeders?

Make sure you understand the Breed Standard and this dog’s original purpose. Talk to the breeders who have been involved in this breed for many years. Be sure the breeders you talk to have the titles on their dogs to prove their abilities or are willing to take you on a hunt with their hounds. Registration papers do not make the dog, the dog makes the registration papers.

For a bit of fun, what’s the most amusing thing we’ve ever experienced with a hound?

I had been teaching one of our young male dogs, “Ollie,” some tricks. It was partly for the mental stimulation, partly for fun, and partly to obtain his Trick Dog title. Ollie is an extremely food-motivated dog, so he is happy to perform tricks for treats.

We were in Orlando at the AKC National Championship and Ollie was awarded Winners Dog. Frank and I both had specials, so we asked one of our friends to take Ollie back in the ring for Breed. This friend has nationally ranked coonhounds of her own and is great at presenting them in the show ring. So, just as any good handler does with an unfamiliar dog, she asked questions about how she should show him. I told her that he was a young dog, just learning how to hold a stack, and is not rock solid at a stand-stay. She should not expect a seasoned show dog. I told her to do her best, but just let Ollie enjoy the experience. What I failed to tell her was NOT to use bait to get him to stand and stay.

I had just finished the individual exam with my bitch special, so I turned to watch my friend with Ollie. She was trying her best to get Ollie to hold still and look good for the judge… but she was trying to do so by using bait. Ollie did what he thought he should do. He was sitting. He was laying down. Ollie was “taking a bow.” He was giving her a “high five.” He was “speaking.” Basically, he was throwing every trick he knew at her, trying to figure out what would earn him that piece of bait in her hand. She was trying to get Ollie to look good for the judge at one of the most prestigious and biggest dog shows of the year and he’s being a complete and utter goofball.

I finally got her attention and motioned to her to put the bait away. By that time, it was too late. After Breed judging, as she was handing him back to me, I apologized and explained how I had just been training him to do some tricks. She said, “My lord… I didn’t know what he was trying to do—everything but what I wanted. No wonder he looked at me like I was a fool. Well, at least he did enjoy himself.”

Are you looking for an American English Coonhound puppy?

The best way to ensure a long and happy relationship with a purebred dog is to purchase one from a responsible breeder. Not sure where to begin finding a breeder?

Contact the National Parent Club’s Breeder Referral person, which you can find on the AKC Breeder Referral Contacts page.

Want to help rescue and re-home an American English Coonhound dog?

Did you know nearly every recognized AKC purebred has a dedicated rescue group? Find your new best friend on the AKC Rescue Network Listing.

American English Coonhound Breed Magazine

Showsight Magazine is the only publication to offer dedicated Digital Breed Magazines for ALL recognized AKC Breeds.

Read and learn more about the American English Coonhound breed with articles and information in our American English Coonhound Breed Magazine.

If you enjoy the American English Coonhound Breed Magazine, help us educate the community by sharing it.

The post River Bottom American English Coonhounds | Franklin Williams & Tracy Kaecker appeared first on Showsight Magazine.

In 2013, I met my partner, Franklin Williams, who introduced me to the world of coonhounds, and I introduced Frank to the world of AKC Conformation. Shortly after meeting, we selected an American English Coonhound puppy from a litter—and I never looked back. The coonhounds stole my heart. That puppy, GCH River Bottom Tri Dunkin Me, became the foundation stud of our American English Coonhounds, produced under Frank’s kennel name “River Bottom.”

In addition to Conformation, I also compete with River Bottom Coonhounds in Scent Work Trials, Water Races, and Bench Shows, and I am currently training two of our dogs in K9 Search and Rescue.

When were you first introduced to the sport of purebred dogs? To your breed?

Tracy Kaecker: In 1992, I purchased a German Shepherd Dog puppy, the first puppy I ever bought, and thought I should do right by taking him to training classes being held locally. The trainer saw great potential in this dog and tried talking me into competing with him in Obedience Trials. At the time, I was showing horses, and show season was coming up, so I said, “Thanks, but no thanks.”

A few months later, I lost my mare to a freak accident in the pasture. Devastated and looking for something to distract me, I went back to my dog trainer and asked her about Obedience Trials and what I needed to do to title my dog in Obedience.

I was competing for my GSD’s third leg for his CD and the trial was held in conjunction with an all-breed Conformation show. I was fascinated and intrigued by what I saw. I went back to the breeder of my GSD and asked her about Conformation. A year later, I got my first show dog from her.

I was still showing German Shepherd Dogs when I met my fiancé, Frank, in 2013. Frank had Bluetick Coonhounds at the time, but he had been looking for a nice English Coonhound.

A few months after we met, Frank heard about someone with a litter of English Coonhounds. Together, we picked out a male puppy. Frank had been thinking about showing in the Conformation ring and I convinced him to do so with this puppy. The puppy we picked out is GCH River Bottom Tri Dunkin Me. He is the foundation sire to our line of American English Coonhounds.

How many years in dogs? How many as an Owner Handler?

Tracy Kaecker: My mom loved German Shepherd Dogs. So, we always had one growing up, but they were purely pets. I was the first (and only) member of my family who began competing with dogs in 1993. I have been involved with dogs in some form ever since.

With a few rare exceptions, I have owner-handled my dogs since I first started showing. I have actively participated in the National Owner-Handled Series for the last four years, competing with the pick bitch from our first litter of American English Coonhounds.

Do you attend show handling classes? Have you attended any handling seminars?

Tracy Kaecker: I have attended a few. I found they were more about getting your dog used to gaiting, stacking, and being examined. They were not focused on teaching handling skills.

I had the opportunity to attend Norma Smith’s two-day handling seminar a couple years ago. It was the best time and money I ever spent on my Conformation career. I wish I could have taken the class 30 years ago when I first started out!

Have you found virtual learning tools to be helpful? Classes? Videos? Websites? Social Media?

Tracy Kaecker: I have watched some instructional videos and found some useful tidbits here and there. I don’t think anything beats hands-on instruction with your own dog, though.

I belong to a few Owner-Handler Facebook groups, but find they are more supportive than instructional. They are a great place for newcomers to learn the ins-and-outs of dog shows.

I also belong to Lee Whittier’s Dog Show Mentor Group. It is a fantastic environment to deal with the psychological aspects of showing. It provides a great forum to learn how to reflect on failures as well as successes, and how to use them to make a stronger connection with your dog as well as a better presentation to the judges.

Do you compete in the National Owner-Handled Series? Are rankings important to you?

Tracy Kaecker: Yes, I compete in NOHS. I’d be lying if I said rankings weren’t important to me to some degree. I’m a very competitive person and the rankings, for me, are a reflection of how well I’m doing. But the most important thing to me is that I am, and more importantly, my dog is, having fun. I want to make sure that we look and do our best every time we step foot in the ring.

In which class(es) are you most likely to enter your dog(s)? Why?

Tracy Kaecker: My current dog is entered in Best of Breed since she is a champion. However, our up-and-comers are entered in the Bred-By Class. If we have a dog that we have not bred, we use the appropriate age class (Puppy, 12-18 or Open).

Is it a challenge to compete with your breed(s) as an Owner Handler?

Tracy Kaecker: When I was showing German Shepherd Dogs, absolutely! It is a breed that is predominately professionally handled and it was hard to get a look from the judges as an Owner Handler.

My current breed, American English Coonhounds, are shown mostly by Owner Handlers. That makes it a much more level playing field in the Breed ring. The dogs and Owner Handlers are much more connected. We are the breeders, the trainers, and the handlers. It is very rewarding when we win because we are invested in our breed.

Are you intimidated by the Professional Handlers? By the judges?

Tracy Kaecker: When I first started showing, absolutely. I was terrified of both! I am definitely not a “natural” when it comes to handling dogs; I’ve looked the fool on numerous occasions, lol. As I’ve gained experience and confidence, I am not as intimidated by Professional Handlers.

There are a few Judges whose presence still intimidates me, but I shrug it off and show my dogs to the best of my ability.

Who have been your mentor(s) as an Owner Handler?

Tracy Kaecker: The best mentors I’ve had, and still have, are some of the Professional Handlers.

How important is the Owner Handler to the future of the dog sport?

Tracy Kaecker: Owner Handlers are the backbone of dog sports. At any given show, a majority of the entries are made by Owner Handlers. Without them, shows would languish as the financial support would be substantially less. And without financial support, clubs and shows would collapse from ever-rising costs. Without clubs and shows, the world of purebred dogs would be in peril.

Additionally, Conformation was designed as a way to recognize exemplary specimens in the breeds. We, as Owner Handlers, are focused on bringing our specific breed(s) as close to the written Breed Standards as possible. In order to find dogs to supplement our programs, we need to seek out those animals that help us improve it. Not every person who is a breeder and has a well-bred dog or bitch has the financial means to pay someone to put it on display. Without Owner Handlers showing in Conformation, exemplary breed specimens may never be known.

We are not in the sport for financial gain. We show our dogs and dedicate our time for the love of our respective breed(s).

What are your goals as an Owner Handler?

My goal as an Owner Handler is to continue to learn how to present any dog to look its best. I want to be in the Group ring and have spectators think, “Wow, what a professional looking presentation.” I don’t want them to be critical of me, but only aware of the dog. (I may never reach that level, but I will continue to try!)

Is there a victory that has eluded you?

Yes, my dream, since I started showing, is to win Best of Breed at Westminster. We’ve qualified the last three years with the American English Coonhounds. The one and only time I actually showed at Westminster, we won Best of Opposite Sex and not the Breed.

On the other hand, I always thought that an unachievable goal was to win an AKC all-breed Best in Show. But we did, and we did it by beating some No. 1 dogs not only in their breed but in AKC overall standings! (Note to all you owner handlers: Yes, it IS possible and yes, you CAN do it!!)

Is there a funny story that you can share about your experiences as an Owner Handler?

I made a very good friend in the dog show world because we saw each other frequently in the Hound Group and we would start talking while waiting for our individual examinations. Well, my American English Coonhound is an exceptionally food-driven coonhound. Those pleading hound dog eyes were impossible for my friend to resist. She started giving my dog, “Diva,” treats both inside and outside the ring. It was all in fun and we joked about how Diva could sucker anyone out of a cookie. My friend quickly became known as my dog’s “cookie dealer.”

One day, we were both in the Owner-Handled Hound Group. My girl is a seasoned show dog and could probably go in the ring and show herself. When it was our turn for the individual exam, I started my down and back, and halfway down, Diva spotted my friend in the ring. Without missing a beat, she turned right towards my friend, stopped, and free-baited!

I couldn’t help but laugh. I finished my down and back, and the judge, smiling, said, “That was a really nice free-stack. Too bad she didn’t do it at a better time!”

Are you looking for a American English Coonhound puppy?

The best way to ensure a long and happy relationship with a purebred dog is to purchase one from a responsible breeder. Not sure where to begin finding a breeder?

Contact the National Parent Club’s Breeder Referral person, which you can find on the AKC Breeder Referral Contacts page.

Want to help rescue and re-home a American English Coonhound dog?

Did you know nearly every recognized AKC purebred has a dedicated rescue group? Find your new best friend on the AKC Rescue Network Listing.

American English Coonhound Breed Magazine

Showsight Magazine is the only publication to offer dedicated Digital Breed Magazines for ALL recognized AKC Breeds.

Read and learn more about the loyal American English Coonhound dog breed with articles and information in our American English Coonhound Breed Magazine.

If you enjoy the American English Coonhound Breed Magazine, help us educate the community by sharing it.

The post Interview with Owner Handler Tracy Kaecker appeared first on Showsight Magazine.

The most frequently asked question I receive when conducting Judges’ Education is, “What separates the American English Coonhound from the others?”

Considering all but two of the coonhound breeds (Plott and American Leopard Hound) can be traced back to the Virginia Hounds, the question is legitimate.

We can probably eliminate the Plott and American Leopard Hound from our comparison. Both breeds have noticeable characteristics that separate them from the other coonhound breeds.

The Plott is the brindle coonhound with a perceptibly different headpiece and shorter ears, and it’s the smallest of the Coonhound breeds.

The American Leopard Hound is not yet fully recognized by AKC, residing in the Foundation Stock Service, and is the only coonhound that can have a tail of any length, including a natural bob-tail.

In addition, we can eliminate the Black and Tan Coonhound for its noticeable differences from the American English Coonhound. The B&T is the largest of the Coonhound breeds, and true to its name, the coat color can only be black with tan points.

The Black and Tan Coonhound also displays hints of the Bloodhound, which was used in its development, being the heaviest in bone and substance, having a longer ear, and with looser skin on the head and body than the other coonhound breeds.

This leaves us to compare the American English, Bluetick, Redbone, and Treeing Walker Coonhounds.

Let’s start with a little history, as that will explain why these remaining coonhounds are similar in many regards.

Three men are credited with the development of the coonhound as we know it today. The first is Robert Brooke who brought a pack of hounds with him from England to America in the mid-1600s. In 1742, a Virginian named Thomas Walker imported some hounds from England. Then, in 1770, George Washington (known to be an avid fox hunter) also imported some foxhounds from England.

The combination of these dogs became the foundation of the hounds known as “Virginia Hounds” from which most Coonhounds are descended.

Through careful, selective breeding, they have been developed to handle the rougher terrain in the Americas and were adapted to hunt local game, such as raccoon, cougar, and even bear.

The English Coonhound was first registered with the United Kennel Club (UKC) in 1905 as the English Fox and Coonhound.

Later, separations were made based on color. Although these same colors are still present in the American English Coonhound, the blue ticked-colored dogs became the Bluetick Coonhound and the tri-colored dogs became the Treeing Walker Coonhound. Both of these breeds first became registered by UKC in 1945. Those not separated then became the English Coonhound, and when accepted into AKC, they became known as the American English Coonhound.

So, what then sets the American English Coonhound apart from the rest? Keep in mind that the differences are subtle, as the breed standards overlap in many areas, but there are
differences nonetheless.

With the Plott Hound, Leopard Hound, and Black and Tan Coonhound out of the equation, in comparison to the remaining coonhound breeds, the American English is going to be the smaller, racier, and tighter-made coonhound. However, they should never be fine-boned nor should they have an exaggerated tuck-up. Despite being the raciest, the American English should still have a good amount of substance, being a well-muscled athlete capable of running through brush and timber all night long.

Bluetick Coonhound vs. American English Coonhound

The size stated in the breed standard for the Bluetick has a wider range than the American English (Bluetick males being 22″-27″ and American English males being 24″-26″), but overall, the Bluetick Coonhound is a slightly larger dog with more bone and body than the American English Coonhound.

Bluetick Coonhounds are going to have a somewhat “courser” head, with more flew and a pronounced occiput, compared to the more refined head of the American English.

Coloring in the Bluetick standard calls for “a dark blue, thickly mottled body, spotted by various shaped black spots… head and ears are predominately black, with or without
tan markings.”

The ticking on a Bluetick should be more blue than white, whereas the ticking on a blue-ticked or tri-colored American English tends to be “open,” with more white showing.

An American English Coonhound can be colored just like a Bluetick, but a similarly marked tri-colored American English coonhound can have a brown head and ears, along with brown that reaches much higher on the legs. In contrast, the Bluetick Coonhound can never have a brown head and ears, and brown on the legs should not extend beyond the pasterns and hocks.

Treeing Walker Coonhound vs. American English Coonhound

The head of the Treeing Walker Coonhound will have more flew and a pronounced occiput, similar to the Bluetick. They range slightly larger than the American English and tend to be longer than tall, whereas the American English standard calls for proportions that are square to slightly off-square.

While a small amount is permissible, rarely will the Treeing Walker have ticking. By contrast, the American English is required to have at least 10 percent ticking over the body.

Redbone Coonhound vs. American English Coonhound

The obvious difference between the American English Coonhound and the Redbone Coonhound is the glorious red-mahogany coat of the Redbone Coonhound.

The Redbone will have a more pronounced stop and a slightly more domed head than the American English. Ear length on the Redbone averages longer than on the American English. The length of ear on the American English Coonhound does not have to extend to the tip of the nose, only to the point where the nose meets the muzzle. The average size of the Redbone is larger and somewhat heavier in bone compared to the American English Coonhound.

As for their temperament, the American English Coonhound standard is the only coonhound standard that states a shy, timid dog should be faulted. This coonhound is a very friendly, outgoing dog, sociable with both humans and canines. So, yes, shyness or timidity should be faulted, as should aggression towards another dog.

A Final Word About Colors

The only disqualification for color in the American English Coonhound standard is a brindle dog, or a tri-colored or solid-colored dog with less than 10 percent ticking over its body. Other than that, color should be the last concern when judging the American English as they come in a rainbow of colors, each equally acceptable.

*The UKC English Coonhound and the AKC American English Coonhound are the same breed. The “American” was added to the name in AKC to indicate it is an American breed descended from English Foxhounds.

*No, the Redbone did not get its name from its color, but rather from one of the men credited with its development, Peter Redbone.

Are you looking for an American English Coonhound puppy?

The best way to ensure a long and happy relationship with a purebred dog is to purchase one from a responsible breeder. Not sure where to begin finding a breeder? Contact the National Parent Club’s Breeder Referral person, which you can find on the AKC Breeder Referral Contacts page.

Want to help rescue and re-home an American English Coonhound dog?

Did you know nearly every recognized AKC purebred has a dedicated rescue group? Find your new best friend on the AKC Rescue Network Listing.

American English Coonhound Dog Breed Magazine

Showsight Magazine is the only publication to offer dedicated Digital Breed Magazines for ALL recognized AKC Breeds.

Read and learn more about the sweet American English Coonhound dog breed with articles and information in our American English Coonhound Dog Breed Magazine.

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Read and learn about the various coonhound performance events, such as Nite Hunts, Bench Shows, Field Trials, and Water Races, as well as the dogs that compete in them. Article by Michelle Zimmerman.

In the glow of moonlight, four handlers reach for the collars of the tri-colored coonhounds on their leads. Standing in a line at the edge of a field, dense, dark woods ahead of them, they await the judge’s call to release—“Cut ‘em!” The handlers point their cap lights toward the woods as they unsnap their leads, releasing the hounds into the darkness. After a moment, the first dog lets out a melodious bawl that echoes off the hills. “Strike Sally,” a handler calls… and the race is on!

Coonhound Nite Hunts

The pillar of coonhound performance events, the Nite Hunt showcases the coonhound’s natural trailing and treeing instinct in a truly wild environment. A group of up to four dogs, called a “cast,” is drawn at random from the total entry of dogs. Casts are assigned a judge and a guide, who may or may not also be handlers of dogs on the cast. The judge’s primary responsibility is to maintain the integrity of the hunt, including scoring dogs in accordance to AKC Nite Hunt Regulations and ensuring sportsmanlike conduct of handlers and spectators.

The judge has authority to “scratch” or disqualify dogs from competition for displaying aggression, babbling (barking when no trail is present), or failing to show hunting activity within required timelines. The judge may also scratch handlers for misconduct while on the cast. The guide’s responsibility is to provide safe territory for the cast to hunt; the guide should be very familiar with the property and be able to alert the cast to any terrain concerns, obstacles, or dangerous areas. The ideal hunting territory is close enough to the hunting club to allow the cast ample opportunity to hunt for the allotted time (Nite Hunts may be 60, 90, or 120 minutes in length) and return by deadline.

When the cast arrives at its hunting territory, the guide directs the cast and judge to the location in which the hounds will be released. At the judge’s call, the dogs are free-cast into the designated area. Unlike Pointer or Retriever Hunt Tests, Nite Hunts do not occur in an environment with planted game. The dogs are not confined to a certain area; they are expected to trail and tree wild raccoons in a natural environment. The distance the dogs travel from where they are cast is dependent upon how far they must go to “strike” or locate a track and how far the track goes before the raccoon is “treed.”

Unlike Pointer or Retriever Hunt Tests, Nite Hunts do not occur in an environment with planted game. The dogs are not confined to a certain area; they are expected to trail and tree wild raccoons in a natural environment.

In mountainous, rugged areas of the United States, such as the Southeast, tracks may be a half-mile or more in length, while in flatter, more open terrain, such as the Midwest, tracks may only be a few hundred yards. Points are scored in a Nite Hunt based on the handlers’ call of their dogs—informing the judge throughout the duration of the hunt what the dog is doing, based on the sound of the dog’s voice. The dogs wear GPS collars so that their handlers are aware of their location; however, handlers may not use the GPS receiver to aid in calling their dogs.

A dog is declared “struck” by its handler upon its vocalization that it has located a track, and points are awarded in a descending manner based upon the order dogs are struck in. The dogs will continue to vocalize as they work the track until they locate their quarry. When the raccoon is located, the dog will give a unique bark, called a “locate,” signifying that it has found its quarry, before its voice rolls over into a “tree” bark, which is distinctive compared to its trailing bark. As dogs are declared treed by their handlers, again, points are awarded based upon the order of tree calls.

The judge or a majority of the handlers on the cast must see a raccoon in the tree for both strike and tree points earned to be considered “plus.” If no raccoon is found in the tree, or “off game,” such as an opossum or bear, is seen in the tree, strike and tree points will be “minus.” If there is evidence that a raccoon could be in the tree, such as a hole large enough for the raccoon to take refuge in or a canopy too thick to see through, the dog will be given the benefit of the doubt and points will be “circled” on the scorecard. Circled points will not count toward the final tally, but can be used to break a tie. If hunt time remains, the dogs and handlers move to a different area and the dogs are released to hunt again.

No live game is ever taken during a Nite Hunt; treed raccoons are left to go about their lives after the dogs are led away from the tree. At the end of the hunt time, the dog with the highest tally of points will be declared the winner of the cast. In AKC-licensed Nite Hunts, dogs are not separated by titles earned; dogs that have achieved Nite Hunt titles (Nite Champion, Grand Nite Champion, or Supreme Grand Nite Champion) may be hunted in the same cast with registered (untitled) dogs. Each first-place cast win counts toward title progression.

Coonhound Hunting Styles

AKC recognizes six breeds of coonhounds:

• Treeing Walker Coonhound
• American English Coonhound
• Black and Tan Coonhound
• Bluetick Coonhound
• Redbone Coonhound
• Plott (Hound)

Apart from the Plott, which developed from German big game hounds, the coonhound breeds descend from Foxhounds imported to the New World well before the American Revolution. The distinctive coonhound breeds were developed as hunters selectively bred dogs that produced specific physical characteristics as well as a particular hunting style. The “hot-nosed” breeds excel at trailing fresh scent tracks, while the “cold-nosed” breeds specialize in working aged tracks with fainter scent.

Treeing Walker Coonhound

Known as “The People’s Choice” due to the breed’s popularity among competitive and pleasure hunters alike, the Treeing Walker Coonhound is a quick, hot-nosed, sensible hunter. The Treeing Walker Coonhound is a wide-ranging, endurance hunter, well suited for just about any type of hunting terrain. A typical Treeing Walker’s strike/trailing bark is a melodious bawl—a long, drawn-out bugling voice that is easily heard from a distance—although some lines have a “chop” mouth, which is a shorter, quicker sequence of barks. When treed, the Treeing Walker may chop or bawl; tree voice is often of a markedly different pitch than trailing voice.

American English Coonhound

Best described as a “super-charged hunter,” the American English Coonhound is a hot-trailing hound that is competitive, fast, and perhaps a bit impatient. The American English excels at short-range hunting due to its speed and racy build, but possesses sufficient endurance to go the distance in areas with thin raccoon populations. Voice may differ according to bloodline, but the typical American English Coonhound has a chop bark that varies in pitch when trailing vs. when treed.

Black and Tan Coonhound

The Black and Tan Coonhound is a deliberate trailing, extremely cold-nosed hunter that can track and tree a raccoon even in the worst conditions. The breed’s supreme scenting ability comes from its Bloodhound influence. Confident and courageous, the Black and Tan is known for its musical voice.

Bluetick Coonhound

Bluetick Coonhounds were originally part of the English Coonhound breed. However, there was a division of preference in size and hunting style among breeders; the larger, albeit slower, cold-nosed hounds were selected to become the foundation of the Bluetick breed. The Bluetick is an open trailer with a bawl voice on track that changes over to a steady chop on tree.

Redbone Coonhound

The Redbone Coonhound is a surefooted, aggressive, cold-nosed hunter that excels at hunting difficult terrain. Early Redbone breeders focused on differentiating the breed by its flashy red coat; then turned their focus to consistent hunting ability. The Redbone’s voice is a bawl on both track and tree.

Plott Hound

Plott (Hounds) are cold-nosed, aggressive hunters that excel at hunting raccoons, as well as big game like bear and wild boar. Plotts are nimble dogs, able to traverse all types of terrain with speed and grace. The Plott produces a loud, ringing chop on track and tree, although some lines may have a bawl mouth.

Coonhound Bench Shows, Field Trials & Water Races

In addition to Nite Hunts, coonhounds are eligible to complete and title in AKC-licensed Field Trials, Water Races, and Bench Shows.

Coonhound Field Trials

Coonhound field trials use a scented lure to lay a track, length dependent on the terrain and general conditions of the trial site, and then the lure is hung in a tree located at the end of the track. Field trial classes are separated, Open and Champion, based on the dogs’ title status. In a field trial, groups of dogs are released at the start of the scent track and have 15 minutes to work the track and come treed. The first dog to cross the final set of flags that mark the track is declared the Line winner, and the first dog come treed at the tree containing the scented lure is declared the Tree winner.

Coonhound Water Races

Water Races are similar to a field trial, except that the dogs swim across a body of water after the lure. The water race pond should be approximately 50 yards in length and deep enough to guarantee that the dogs must swim the entire length. A water race event has a Novice (non-titling) class for beginners, as well as an Open class that is open to all coonhounds, regardless of water race title status.

In a water race, dogs are placed in a starting box at the entrance to the pond; a scented lure is suspended on a cable above the water or floated across the pond. The lure is drawn across the pond, and the dogs swim after it. The first dog to exit the water in the direction of the tree will be declared the Line winner, and the first dog to show treed at the tree is declared the Tree winner.

Coonhound Bench Shows

Bench Shows bring the demonstration of form and function together at a coonhound event. In a typical event, after the field and water events, and prior to the Nite Hunt, handlers showcase their dogs’ conformation to the breed standard. Dogs are gaited individually in a pattern, usually a down-and-back followed by a go-around, and then examined by the judge on
individual benches. Evaluation and placement should equally consider movement on the ground and the exam. Dogs earn points toward their Bench Show Championship as they advance through the Class, Breed, and Best of Show levels of judging.

Coonhounds in Conformation

When judging a Coonhound in the Conformation ring, it is important to understand that many of the dogs exhibited today remain close to their working heritage. Some dogs may be hunted during the week and be cleaned-up for the show ring on the weekends. Others may enjoy a full-time show dog’s life of luxury but still exhibit their breed’s natural hunting instinct if given the opportunity.

When judging a Coonhound in the Conformation ring, it is important to understand that many of the dogs exhibited today remain close to their working heritage. Some dogs may be hunted during the week and be cleaned-up for the show ring on the weekends.

The breed standards describe an ideal working dog and should be interpreted as such. Coonhounds must be sound enough to hunt from sundown to sunrise, in terrain varying from rugged mountains to swamps. Some get to hunt most of their nights in the flat Midwest, but must still be able to handle rough terrain, when necessary, especially if they are campaigned in National Level Nite Hunts. It is not uncommon to see top-ranked competition dogs aged seven-plus years old; the emphasis coonhound breeders put on producing a sound, structurally correct dog is exemplified by their longevity in the woods.

Reference:

American Kennel Club. Regulations for AKC Coonhound Bench Shows, Field Trials, Nite Hunts, and Water Races. History and Standards for Coonhound Breeds. www.akccoonhounds.org.

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As you know, the back is divided into four sections; the withers, back, loin, and croup. Behind the withers is the back, then the loin, then the croup, and the vertebrae go back all the way to the end of the tail. In certain coonhounds today, more in some breeds than in others, we’re seeing a short rib cage and a long loin on a regular average-backed dog. The dog might be the right length in the back, but if the rib cage doesn’t go back far enough into the loin, it’s not going to have enough cavity that it needs for the heart, the lungs, and all the organs. A short back, combined with a long loin, makes a coonhound weak and unable to run long distances. In coonhounds especially, strength over the loin and lung space are needed.

Many of the top-winning Treeing Walker Coonhounds are sadly lacking in shoulder angulation and would never make it in the field. What’s really important about the shoulder blades is not just the layback; not just the way the blades are angled. The shoulder blades are angled at 45 degrees, as is the upper arm, forming a perfect 90-degree “L.” A good shoulder is oblique, the way a bone curves back into the curvature of the body. The shoulder bone cannot stick straight up, out of the dog’s back, and be efficient. They’ve got to come back together a little bit, lay back, and curve back into the body.

Another important point regarding the shoulder assembly is the point of the elbow. The point of elbow is directly under the withers, right under the top of the shoulder blade, in a perfectly straight line. You could run a plumb line and drop it right where the shoulder blades meet and it will come straight down through the elbow to the floor, right behind the foot. I’ll guarantee that you won’t see many dogs made like this. What you’ll see is a shorter upper arm, or an upper arm pitched at an angle that forces the elbow in front of the shoulder. That combination leads to bad action on the front.

So, look at the front assembly very carefully. Visualize a big circle, with a straight line dropping through it, cutting it in half, meeting the elbow, meeting the ground. It will be the focal point on a well-made dog. There’s a good reason for this. The heart, lungs, and all of the organs that make them run are right there. They better have that depth, that balance. Look at how this dog’s chest (far left) comes down and meets his elbow. There must be enough depth of brisket for lung capacity. There are many dogs whose elbows are too far below their brisket line.

The same is true about the hindquarters. The dog in this photo (below right) shows the relationship between the length of the two bones and the angle formed by them. We can’t see through to the bone, but look at the width of the thigh. I’ve never seen a coonhound that had too much width of second thigh.

In coonhound structure, we’re also losing some angle from the stifle joint to the point of the hock. We’re getting too many dogs that look unbalanced, especially if they’re straight in the shoulder and straight in the hindquarter assembly. Look for second thigh, width of thigh. You have to observe this with your eyes and your hands to make sure they are correct. And remember that the tail is an extension of the spine. A tail that goes straight up may affect the pitch of the pelvis. Up front, you can really see and feel the shoulder blades. Again, balance is the key. If you see this in action, you’ll know what I’m talking about. You’ll say, “Now I get it. That is side gait.” That’s something we don’t look for enough when we judge. A dog can look pretty standing there with a handler posing them, but when you gait them on the ground there is nothing that can be done to make them look good. You can’t do it with the lead. What you see is what you get. And don’t let markings fool you—easy to do with a Treeing Walker’s markings especially. As a result, his shoulders might look different, but when you get your hands on him you will see where his shoulder blades are. Don’t be afraid to get your hands on those blades, to feel them. If you run your hands down the blades, and down the upper arms to the elbows, you can visualize what the angles are.

The feet and pasterns are very closely tied together and they should be in balance with each other. You’ll hardly ever see great pasterns with bad feet, or the other way around. It’s usually a package. We get to the point in coonhound shows that we’re looking for such tight feet that we might be getting a little carried away sometimes. A great cat foot with a straight pastern is pretty to look at, but it doesn’t offer any shock absorbers to the force coming down through the shoulders. You’ve got to have a little spring, a little flexibility, to the slightly sloping pastern.

Dog 1. Correct Hind Angulation: Note the 30-degree slope of the pelvis. This provides the most power. Just as important is the perfect 130-degree angle of the back joint, providing the leverage to push the dog forward.

Dog 2. Incorrect Hind Angulation. The pelvic slope of 10 degrees promotes the overly-straight stifle joint shown here. The back joint is also overly-straight at 148 degrees.

Coonhounds are a scenthound and the tail carriage will be up. You want to see a dog that can extend its front, that can push behind, show balance, propulsion and locomotion movement with ease, and cover ground.

Withers-back-loin-croup is all you need to remember. Four basic parts that better work together. If the withers are too steep, the shoulders aren’t laidback enough; there’s going to be a basic, functional problem. If the back’s too long or too short, there’s going to be a basic, functional problem. If the ribs don’t go back into the loin far enough, or deep enough, there’s going to be a basic, functional problem. Other problems to be aware of include a weak loin and a roach back. The croup’s got to have some pitch and some length. If a croup is too short and steep, it will affect the tail set.

I hope that this will help in the judging of our coonhounds and determining the right Coonhound Structure. They are a movement dog with good reach and drive. Coonhounds give meaning to Form=Function.

What is the correct Coonhound Structure? by Nancy Winton, Dry River Kennels

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